Как установить ванну на ножках своими руками: 2 способа монтажа + инструкции по установке сифона и экрана, установка стальной ванны своими руками на ножках,как правильно установить экран под ванну,монтаж, крепление к стене,как закрепить железную ванну, установка ванны в ванной комнате обложенной плиткой.

Как установить ванну на ножках: секреты правильной установки

На сегодняшний день существует несколько вариантов установки ванны. Самые популярные из них – это опорные ножки и кирпичная основа. Первый способ выбирают те, кто стремится по максимуму оставлять свободное пространство даже в таком небольшом помещении как ванная комната.

Если ванна покоится на ножках, то пол под ней остается свободным. Это значит, что у вас будет возникать меньше проблем с уборкой, и вы всегда сможете осуществить мелкий ремонт сантехники под ванной, не демонтируя опору. Кроме того, открытый доступ к пространству под ванной позволяет постоянно держать эту зону в чистоте, вовремя убирать лужи воды, грязь и попавшие туда во время купания предметы.

Помимо стандартных установочных ножек, в продаже имеется широкий ассортимент декоративных опор, которые будут прекрасно смотреться в интерьере, стилизованном под классику, барокко и другие ретро-направления.

О том, какие правила установки на ножки существуют для ванн разных видов, читайте в нашей сегодняшней статье.

Разновидности ванн на ножках

Чугунные

Самые первые ванны, запущенные в массовое производство, производились именно из чугуна. Это материал невероятно долговечный и износостойкий – чугунная ванна прослужит своим хозяевам не одно десятилетие, не теряя своих первоначальных свойств. Сантехника из чугуна отличается прочностью, хорошей теплопроводностью и неприхотливостью в уходе. Минус ее состоит в том, что чугун очень тяжелый, что усложняет транспортировку и монтаж сантехнического оборудования, изготовленного из данного материала.

Стальные

Сталь – материал достаточно прочный, но не такой тяжелый, как чугун, поэтому он пользуется большей популярностью у покупателей. Еще один плюс в его пользу – стальная сантехника относится к классу бюджетной. Ванну из стали просто установить и за ней не трудно ухаживать. Крупных недостатков у такой ванны будет два: небольшой срок службы и полное отсутствие шумоизоляции.

Акриловые

Акрил – это более современный и дорогой материал, чем чугун и сталь. Из акрила сегодня производят не только ванны, но и другие типы сантехнического оборудования. Сантехника из акрила имеет прекрасный внешний вид, приятную на ощупь и, что особенно важно, нескользкую поверхность. Минусом акриловых ванн является хрупкая структура материала, что исключает использование чистящих средств, содержащих в своем составе агрессивные вещества.

Помимо трех вышеперечисленных материалов, в ассортименте магазинов, торгующих сантехническим оборудованием, есть ванны из пластика, кварила, мрамора и других материалов как искусственного, так природного происхождения. Мы не будем останавливаться на них подробно, так как наша задача – рассказать про самые распространенные разновидности ванн.

Необходимые инструменты и материалы

Для того чтобы установить на ножки ванну, вне зависимости от материала ее изготовления, вам понадобятся следующие расходные материалы и оборудование:

• карандаш или смываемый маркер;
• рулетка;
• строительный уровень;
• комплект регулируемых ножек;
• опорная рама для купели;
• комплект крепежей;
• санитарный герметик на основе силикона;
• дрель или перфоратор с набором сверл.

Подготовительные работы

Перед тем, как приступить непосредственно к установке сантехнического оборудования, необходимо подготовить рабочее пространство. Для начала нужно демонтировать старую ванну.

Вместе с ванной желательно заменить всю систему слива-перелива, поэтому без сожалений удаляем старый сифон, смеситель и т.д. Предварительно не забываем перекрыть в ванной комнате горячее и холодное водоснабжение.

При необходимости очищаем пол и стены в зоне, где будет установлена ванна, от остатков строительных материалов. Очищаем все поверхности от грязи и плесени. После этого рекомендуется провести обработку специальным антибактериальным составом, препятствующим образованию грибка и плесени.

Выметаем с пола весь мусор и застилаем его целлофаном или старыми газетами. Рабочее место готово, можно начинать монтаж ванны на ножки.

Установка чугунной ванны

• Так как полы в наших квартирах зачастую оказываются совсем не ровными, на каждую из опорных ножек рекомендуется для начала установить регулировочные винты. С их помощью впоследствии можно будет выровнять ванну по горизонтали для того, чтобы система слива перелива-работала нормально.
• Ножки к ванне крепим попарно – сначала две передние, а затем две задние. Есть несколько вариантов креплений – «липучки» (ножки на самоклеящейся основе), клинья и стяжные болты. Ножки на клеевой основе следует просто прижать к днищу ванны на несколько секунд. Клинья забиваются в предварительно просверленные отверстия. Стяжные болты также вставляются в отверстия и крепко закручиваются.
• Вторая пара ножек крепится на уже перевернутую днищем вниз ванну. При этом под ту сторону, на которой еще нет ножек, устанавливается надежная опора, способная выдержать вес чугунной ванны.
• Когда все четыре ножки будут на месте, ванну следует выровнять в горизонтальной плоскости. Используйте для этого строительный уровень. Особенное внимание уделяйте сторонам, которые примыкают к стенам. Зазор между стеной и краем купели должен быть как можно меньше.

Установка стальной ванны

Установка ножек на стальную ванну производится значительно легче, так как сантехнической прибор из стали весит в несколько раз меньше, чем аналогичный, сделанный из чугуна.

• Переворачиваем ванну днищем вверх и примеряем опорные ножки к местам крепежа. Первая пара ножек должно располагаться между центром купели и сливным отверстием, на расстоянии примерно двух сантиметров от последнего. Вторую пару нужно будет установить как можно ближе к противоположному краю купели.
• Если это необходимо, несущий металлический профиль аккуратно распрямляем, стараясь при этом не повредить ванну.
• Опорные ножки к стальной ванне обычно крепятся при помощи накладок на клеевой основе. Перед тем, как снять с накладок защитную пленку и приклеить ножки к днищу ванны, места крепежа следует обезжирить. Для этого подойдет любой растворитель или спиртовой раствор. Прогреваем накладки клеем, отделяем защитную пленку и плотно прижимаем каждую из опорных ножек к днищу.
• После того, как клеевой состав схватится, к ножкам нужно присоединить регулировочные шпильки. Они имеют резьбу, поэтому можно просто забить их в наконечники из пластика. Затем прочно фиксируем шпильки на ножках при помощи гаек.
• Используя строительный уровень, находим для стальной ванны правильное положение в горизонтальной плоскости. Делаем на стенах разметку и, в соответствии с ней, устанавливаем ванну на место.
• При желании можно наклеить несколько пластин для звукоизоляции.

Установка акриловой ванны

Акриловые ванны предназначены, чаще всего, именно для установки на ножки. Это существенно облегчает нам задачу, так как комплект опор и крепежей, как правило, идет в комплекте с прибором, а последовательность шагов подробно описана в инструкции по установке.

• Как и во всех предыдущих случаях, первым делом нужно примерить опорные ножки к месту монтажа и сделать разметку.
• Следующий шаг – сверление отверстий. Акрил — материал хрупкий, поэтому ванну ни в коем случае не следует просверливать насквозь. Обязательно воспользуйтесь ограничителем для сверла.
• Затем устанавливаем на ванну основные крепежные элементы – направляющие для каркаса и опорные ножки.
• Теперь нужно смонтировать систему слива-перелива и установить ее на место. К стене акриловая ванна монтируется уже с сифоном.
• Переворачиваем ванну днищем вниз и несем ее к месту установки. Берем строительный уровень и определяем для нее оптимальное положение. Оставляем на стенах разметку.
• В соответствии со сделанной разметкой, монтируем к стене монтажные крюки. Они придадут конструкции дополнительную прочность и защитят ванну от деформации.
• Теперь ванну можно смело устанавливать на место, ведь опорой ей будут служить не только ножки, но и металлические крюки.

Заключительный этап

После того, как все установочные работы окончены, нужно сделать еще множество мелких, но важных дел.

• Устанавливаем смеситель и систему слива-перелива (если вы не сделали это на основном этапе). Подключаем ванну к водопроводным трубам.
• Теперь нужно проверить нашу конструкцию на герметичность: закрываем слив и наполняем ванну водой. Через несколько часов тщательно обследуем все соединения на наличие протечек. Если таковые будут обнаружены, устраняем их при помощи герметика для ванной.
• Следующая проблема, которую нужно решить – это заделка щели между стеной и купелью. Для этого можно воспользоваться одним из проверенных методов – герметиком, бордюрной лентой или уголком для ванны.
• В заключение нужно позаботиться о том, чтобы не всегда приглядная опорная конструкция была скрыта от посторонних глаз. Для этих целей под ванну обычно устанавливают декоративный экран. Можно собрать его самостоятельно из гипсокартона и облицевать керамической плиткой, а можно купить готовый раздвижной экран из пластика или оргстекла.

Самые лучшие посты

90000 How to install a bath yourself 90001 90002 At the moment, the stores are bathsfor every taste, they can be made from expensive or from cheaper materials. Usually the quality of the materials is not so important as the appearance and dimensions of the bathroom. However, even in the case of buying the most beautiful and comfortable, an important question may arise about how to install a bath. The situation becomes more complicated if the person does not trust the specialists, but wants to do everything on their own, and then each pursues some very definite goals.90003 Bath is available in any apartment, while itusually has a rather attractive design. Before installing a bath, you should determine the material from which it should be made, and at the moment the most relevant are usually considered steel, plastic and cast iron. Each of them has pros and cons. For example, cast-iron ones are very high-quality, they do not lose their attractive appearance for years, however, their main drawback is that it is impossible to independently install them at all because of their huge weight.The steel structure is much easier to install, and the degree of strength at them is similar to cast iron. However, such a bathroom has a low thermal insulation, and when water is drawn into it, it produces a strong noise. Acrylic products have all the minuses and pluses of the two previous types, however, while their cost is greatly overstated.Now we can go on to the question of howto establish a bath? Most often they are mounted on legs, and here it is important to make a small slope, allowing the water to be released naturally.Otherwise, it will remain water, which will need to be drained by some means. An outlet is installed at the bottom, which joins with the siphon, and an overflow pipe must be installed from the outside. In imported models, a suitable siphon usually comes complete with a bathtub. If we talk about how to install a bath, then it should be noted that at first it should be laid sideways, after which the floor siphon and overflow should be mounted. Further, it is advisable to place the legs in the right places, on which you can install a bath, however, it is necessary to put it so that the outlet pipe gets into the pipe that leads to the sewerage.After that, you can insert the outlets in the sewer pipes.It is better to immediately move the bathtub as close towall, and then make a bias towards the release. Adjustment of slope can be made by means of plates made of steel, wood or plastic, which must be installed under the legs of the bathtub. Next, you can close the joint of the siphon and sewer, and small crevices between the bathroom and the wall should be covered with thick cement. When it dries, these places need to be covered with oil paint.If you are interested in installing a whirlpool bath, then the situation is absolutely similar. If the apartment uses a mixer that performs its functions for the bath and the sink, then the sides should be covered by at least 8 centimeters, which will not allow the water to spill during the switch. If the installation of a corner bath is concerned, then it is important to note that its installation is not much different from the installation of a conventional one. It is only necessary to make sure that the angle at which it is installed completely corresponds to it.90002 So, now you know how to install a bath, you just have to take it and do it. 90003 p >> .90000 How to Install a Water Heater Yourself Quick and Simple (With Pictures) 90001 90002 Work a Little … Save a Lot 90003 90004 Replacing your hot water tank can be a costly venture. Having someone provide this service for you can cost between $ 800 and $ 1,000 for a standard, gas burning, 40 or 50-gallon hot water heater and that’s if it goes out Monday through Friday from 8 am to 5 pm. 90005 90004 The days of buying a new water tank for $ 150 are gone and having it installed for less than a couple hundred dollars… gone with it. So how can you afford to get this done and take a nice hot shower without crying the «I’m Broke Blues» in the process? Well, perhaps this will help. 90005 90004 The following is a sort of documentary of my recent water heater replacement chore. Once you’ve seen what I’ve done here and picked up on the materials that are available to you to make it simple, you too could choose to do it yourself. Relive the old days by learning how you can replace your own water heater for about $ 400 and a few hours of work.90005 90002 Step 1: Drain Your Old Water Heater 90003 90004 First thing is first, let’s get this old beater water heater drained so we can get it cut loose and out of here. I do not know about you but after new parts, band-aiding, and finally leaking all over my floor, I’m ready to see her go. 90005 90004 Draining the water heater is easy but be sure to get it started first since it will take a while to drain off and no one wants to carry water heater up a flight of stairs while there’s still water in it.It makes it heavy and will more than likely create a mess along the way. 90005 90004 Understand that when reading about draining your heater, that’s where we stop. We’re only draining it so we can remove it and no flushing or refilling is necessary. Just get it drained and stop. 90005 90002 Step 2: Shut Off the Gas and Remove the Flue 90003 90004 Now that you’ve read up on how to drain your water heater, be sure the gas is turned off at the valve, not just at the control module. We will soon be disconnecting the gas line so we certainly want to make sure it is off at the valve.This is very simple. Just turn the gas valve a quarter turn so that the handle is parallel to the gas line. Just remember that in doing this, the gas is still waiting on one side of the valve though it is off on the other. 90005 90004 As for the flue, it’s got to come off too. The flue, or chimney, is reusable as long as it’s intact and not rusting through. Take it off by removing the screws that are holding it to the draft hood and those holding it to the remaining chimney. Again, this is quite simple and you really only need to be careful with the adjustable joints in the flue so that they do not break apart if you twist too hard or in the wrong direction since they may have grown a bit stiff over the years .90005 90002 Step 3: Disconnecting the Gas Line 90003 90004 Okay, so this is the part that everyone freaks out about and with good reason. Gas is explosive and that seems to bother people. I get it but honestly, electricity is scarier if you ask me and I’ve worked with both regularly for many years. You see, gas warns you if something is wrong. It will hiss and it will stink, both letting you know that something is not right. Before we move on, just pay attention with your eyes, nose, and ears as you do this part.90005 90004 Loosen the line slowly so that you can stop immediately and begin to tighten it back up should you hear hissing from the line. This would mean that somehow, you had forgotten to shut it off or shut it off completely. If you unscrew it fast, you risk the line coming apart completely before realizing there is a problem. Trust me, if you’re paying attention you’re not likely to have any problems. One last thing … be sure there are no open flames around where you’re working. Did I really need to say that? Yes, yes I did.90005 90004 Okay, so we disconnect the line at what is called the union. The union will be located between the main valve and where it connects to the water heater. It is a fitting that allows the line to be joined to a stationary object. Otherwise, you would reach a point where you’ll need to screw the line into the heater and as you do, it will unscrew from the last piece you connected. You place one pipe wrench on the big nut, pulling left to right and one on the smaller nut below, pulling right to left.This will «break» open the union allowing it to be split in half. 90005 90004 Once the union is open, take the remaining gas line off of the old tank. So long as this pipe is in good condition, you will use it to connect to your new water tank. Many times, the new tank and the old tank will line right back up. If not, miscellaneous gas fittings can be purchased at just about any hardware or home improvement store. 90005 90002 Step 4: Cut the Tank Loose from the Water Lines 90003 90004 Okay, the last thing we need to do before taking this piece of junk to the scrap heap is cut it loose from the water lines.On the hot water side, we do not really have much to worry about in the way of where we cut the line. The water from this side of the tank is off and emptied so we will not have any real mess to speak of. 90005 90004 Your only real consideration here is how much you’ll have to do to reconnect it. This is definitely a «less is more» scenario. If at all possible, we’d like to just go up a few inches off the tank and cut so that we can use as little material as possible connecting our new tank. 90005 90004 As for the cold water side, if you have a shut off valve that is in good shape, you’ll want to cut below that so that you can keep the water on to the rest of the house and if not, you’ll have to shut off the water at the main and I suggest installing a new valve while you have this all opened up.90005 90002 Cutting Copper 90003 90004 Use a copper tubing cutter to cut your water lines. It’s important not to go to fast meaning you snug it up to the line, go around a couple times then tighten again, then go around a couple times, then tighten and so on. Do not tighten down to fast or you will «oval» out the pipe and your new ROUND fittings will not fit. 90005 90002 Break Time … 90003 90004 Okay, a couple of little things here before we get started putting our new tank in that I think will give you a «heads up» and maybe save you a couple dollars too.90005 90004 First, your new tank will come with a new T & P valve that is made for your tank so we do not need the old one but we will want to try to salvage our run-off tube that is hooked to the old T & P. If the old and new tank had the T & P hooked into the side of the tank, you should just be able to remove and re-install the tube. If it was on top of the old tank, like mine, and will be on the side of the new tank, you can make 2 cuts on the tube, one on the vertical drop and one on the horizontal run.Doing this will allow you to «couple» the line back together, cut it to length and reuse it on the new tank instead of buying another one. 90005 90004 Also, since you’re likely cracking open your new tank, do not throw away any paperwork. You’re going to have to register your warranty and you may even want to take the sticker off the box that has the model and serial number stamped on it and tape it to your paperwork so it’s convenient if you ever need it for warranty parts. 90005 90004 Lastly, clean up the area.Clean where you’re new tank will sit since you will not have access to this spot again for some time and once the new tank goes in, it could be hard to tell if you have new water messes or old water messes when you ‘ re testing the connections and such for your new tank. A clean slate will help to detect any issues before «sticking a fork in» this project. 90005 90004 Now, the rest of the family would like to have hot water again sometime today so …. back to work! 90005 90002 Step 5: Installing Our New Hot Water Heater 90003 90004 Installing our water heater is really as easy as reversing everything we just did.We need to put the new water tank in place being sure that the hot and cold water sides are properly lined up with the plumbing as it was before. Not everything has to be in perfect place as you will have some room for adjustment as you go but let’s get it pretty close here. I suggest reconnecting in the following order. 90005 90062 90063 Hook up the cold water line. 90064 90063 Hook up the hot water line. 90064 90063 Start to fill the tank while also inspecting your new connections for leaks.90064 90063 Hook up the gas line. 90064 90063 Hook up the flue. 90064 90063 Hook up the run-off tube. 90064 90063 Relight the pilot light and turn the tank on. 90064 90077 90004 Since everyone will have a slightly unique situation in reconnecting their water heater, let me just offer you some tips and lists that will help you to determine your best approach. 90005 90002 Is Your New Tank Leaving Water on the Floor? 90003 90004 It’s not uncommon for a new tank to leave some dampness on the floor when it’s first being used.This is because there is an insulated lining between the tank and the outer shell that can gather humidity while in storage waiting to be sold. 90005 90004 Now when you heat it up, that trapped moisture will condensate, run to the bottom of the tank and onto the floor. Give it a day. If you still see water down there then you may have a problem. Now, I’m not talking about a running river here. If you have that much water, there is definitely a problem but if it’s just a smaller amount, I would not panic.It will likely be gone tomorrow. 90005 90002 Pipe Sizing 90003 90004 Though much of your house is likely ran in 1/2 «piping, where it connects to your water heater is likely 3/4» piping. This is true for most residential water heaters. At least those that are between 40 and 50 gallons. 90005 90002 Plumbing is Easy With Push, Threaded and Compression Fittings 90003 90004 Many people have avoided plumbing for the reason of having to «sweat» or solder copper fittings. Well, let me introduce you to the push fitting.(A.k.a. — SharkBites) 90005 90004 Push fittings could not have made plumbing any easier. You simply push the fitting onto the pipe and «voila», you’re done. You can even remove the fitting with a special, very inexpensive tool made by the manufacturer. You simply slide the tool onto the pipe, push it against the end of the fitting, wiggle and … you guessed it, «voila». It’s off again. These fittings can even be turned or rotated once they’re installed so you do not even have to be perfectly straight right away when say making sure the handle of a valve is in front.Go ahead, put it on backwards … it’s okay. Once in place, just spin it into where you want it and «voila» you’re a pro. 90005 90004 These fittings are nearly as good as an invention as running water itself. You may have heard otherwise but I have used these all over my home and have yet to have a problem. I do not suggest using them in areas that are inaccessible simply because the oldest one I have is 7 years and though it’s holding up fine, these have not been around long enough to say what they’ll do in 20.That said, for our purposes here … it’s a no brainer. They are a bit more expensive but worth every penny as far as I’m concerned. Just place the insert in the pipe and listen for the click, click. 90005 90004 As for compression and threaded fittings … these are just fittings that you wrench onto the water tank. Again, really simple and no soldering. Just put a little Teflon tape on the nipple, hand tighten them down, put a wrench on it to snug it up and yep, «voila». (Nipple — a piece of pipe that is usually threaded on both ends) 90005 90004 One last thing and then I’ll let the pictures do the talking.You’ll hear the term «dielectric» be thrown around when talking about water tank installation. In short, a dielectric nipple or union are needed because copper reacts chemically with certain metals. In this case, the metal your water heater is made of. This reaction causes corrosion and ruins the integrity of the copper, in turn giving you leaks. Most every water heater today has dielectric nipples mounted on the unit already and if you use the braided Sharkbite lines shown in the picture above, you will not need a dielectric union either as they have it built right on the hose.I use these on about every job nowadays. 90005 90002 How to Hook Up Gas Line 90003 90004 When reconnecting your gas line, work from the control valve on the water heater back to the union where you took it apart. This way, when you get to the union, you can connect the 2 lines without the parts unscrewing from each other. Once you’ve gotten to the union, line it up, begin to hand tighten and then put your 2 wrenches on it as you did when you took it apart. One on the big nut, one on the smaller nut below and turn them in opposite directions until snug.This should complete your gas line hook up. Here are a couple of other things you need to know about running gas line. 90005 90106 90063 90108 Never over tighten 90109. Snugged up is good. 90064 90063 90108 Make sure you keep a wrench on the piece your attaching too for opposite pressure 90109. This way, as you put on new pieces, you do not add tension down the line. This is especially important near the valve because too much pressure on the valve could damage your new water heater. 90064 90063 90108 Use «pipe dope».90109 Pipe dope is a putty-like substance that seals the connections. Use the small brush to apply the dope to the «male» side of the connection only before installing. 90064 90063 90108 No fires! 90109 90064 90063 90108 Leak check. 90109 Once you turn the gas back on, leak check it by using either a store bought leak detector solution or even a thin application of dish soap. If it bubbles up on you, you have a leak and need to shut the valve again until the leak is repaired. I like this Camco Leak Detector Spray.It makes even minor leaks very obvious-great for peace of mind. 90064 90063 90108 Bleed the line. 90109 Now that you’ve opened the gas line, air has gotten in there and needs to be removed. You should bleed the line at the «dirt leg». (See terms) You do this once all the gas line is connected. 90004 — Remove the cap from the dirt leg and apply the pipe dope to the nipple. 90131 — Screw the cap on just barely hand tight. 90131 — Turn the gas on. 90131 — Loosen the cap 90108 just a bit 90109 so that you hear a slight hiss.90131 — Wait a few seconds letting the gas push the air out and then tighten the cap completely. 90005 90064 90139 90002 Finishing Up Your Hot Water Tank Installation 90003 90004 You still have your flue to hook up but this might be the simplest part of it all. Just slide it back into place at the chimney connection and lower it down onto the draft hood that you’ve been provided with your tank. As long as you’re installing a similar water heater to the one you’ve just removed, these should line right back up.Put the screws back in and … «ta-da» (gotcha) 90005 90004 At this point, now that you’ve read up on draining your water heater, you know how to fill up your water heater as well. Without further ado, and with the tank filled up, let’s get the show back on the road by lighting up our water heater and watching as it works for the first time. By now, you’ve inspected for leaks but keep watching. As our tank heats up and the pressure is stabilizing, leaks that were not there before can begin to show themselves.So long as all is well, you should have hot water in no time. With some of the newer units, you may even have an LED light to tell you all is well on the control module. 90005 90002 Remember: Safety First 90003 90004 I hope this information has been helpful and the pictures useful in helping understand the parts and terminology being used. The work is not rocket science, maybe not even as hard as the reading. I just want to be as clear as possible, covering as many aspects of the task as possible.90005 90004 As always, never assume or guess at anything when working with your household appliances. Especially those that are gas burning or use electricity. These tasks are to be done carefully and with the understanding that there is risk involved. My aim is to help you, not put you in harms way. If you are not confident in performing these tasks, do not. Contact a professional to do this for you and feel better knowing what it is he’s up to. 90005 90004 Happy home-owning! 90005 .90000 How to Install a New Bathtub 90001 90002 90003 90004 90003 Home & Garden 90004 90003 Home Improvement 90004 90003 Kitchen & Bath Remodeling 90004 90003 How to Install a New Bathtub 90004 90013 90014 Installing a tub is not an easy do-it-yourself project because it involves working with a large, heavy object in a small space. If you have any misgivings about doing it, hire a plumber who has the experience to install it and the license to hook up the fixtures. 90015 90016 Placing the ledger board 90017 90014 The first step in installing a tub is to set in place a ledger board that supports the edges of the tub that contact the walls of the tub enclosure.90015 90002 90003 90014 Push the tub into the enclosure and mark the top of the flange on the wall studs with a pencil. 90015 90004 90003 90014 Measure and mark the location for the top of the ledger, usually about 1 inch below the first mark. 90015 90014 Use the manufacturer’s specifications or measure the distance from the top of the flange to the underside of the tub; it’s usually 1 inch. 90015 90004 90003 90014 Use coarse drywall screws to fasten the ledger board horizontally and level across the back wall of the alcove.90015 90014 90015 90004 90003 90014 Fasten shorter ledger boards to the ends of the enclosure, level with the board you install on the back wall. 90015 90014 Doing so creates a continuous ledge on the tub enclosure wall for the tub to rest on. 90015 90004 90013 90016 Hooking up the plumbing 90017 90014 It’s easier to install the drain and overflow pipes on the tub before it’s permanently installed in the enclosure. Turn the tub over or rest it on its side and then follow these steps: 90015 90002 90003 90014 Follow the manufacturer’s directions and assemble the shoe fitting, which is placed under the tub and the waste pipe.90015 90004 90003 90014 Assemble the overflow fitting with the overflow pipe. 90015 90014 90015 90014 Insert the ends of the overflow pipe and waste pipe in the T-fitting. 90015 90004 90003 90014 Put this assembly in place to check that shoe and overflow align with the openings in the tub. 90015 90004 90003 90014 Place a bead of plumber’s putty around the drain flange and wrap Teflon pipe tape around the threads on its body. 90015 90004 90003 90014 Place a rubber washer on the shoe and position the shoe under the tub in alignment with the drain flange.90015 90004 90003 90014 Screw the drain flange into the shoe. 90015 90004 90003 90014 Tighten the drain flange. 90015 90014 Place the handles of a pair of pliers in the drain flange. Insert the blade of a large screwdriver between the handles of the pliers and use it as a lever to tighten the drain flange. 90015 90004 90003 90014 Place a rubber washer on the overflow drain and install the overflow cover with the screws provided. 90015 90014 You may want to leave the drain linkage and pop-up assembly out of the tub until you set it in place.90015 90004 90013 90016 Securing the tub 90017 90014 Follow these steps to apply mortar to the subfloor of the tub: 90015 90002 90003 90014 Mix a batch of mortar according to the package directions. 90015 90004 90003 90014 With a notched trowel, spread a 2-inch layer of mortar on the subfloor where the tub will sit. 90015 90004 90003 90014 Lift the tub in place and position it so that it’s tight against the walls. 90015 90014 Hold a carpenter’s level on the tub and check that it’s level.If not, adjust it by placing wood shims under the tub. 90015 90004 90013 90014 After the tub is level, you secure it to the enclosure to keep it that way. Secure the flange to the studs by driving 1-inch galvanized roofing nails through the holes in the flange. If the tub is fiberglass, drill holes at each stud. If it’s a steel or cast-iron tub and it has no holes, or they do not align with the studs, drive the nails above the top of the flange so that the head of each nail engages the flange.Hammer carefully so as not to damage the tub. 90015 90014 90015 .