Потолок гипсокартон своими руками двухуровневый: 100 фото и 5 видео

Как сделать двухуровневый потолок из гипсокартона своими руками : советы мастеров

Те, кто хочет самостоятельно смастерить двухуровневый потолок из гипсокартона, в этой статье найдут детальное описание данного процесса.

Существует довольно много форм двухуровневых подвесных потолков, но, при этом их монтаж практически одинаков. Главным отличием является создание прямолинейных или криволинейных конструкций.

Проведение подготовительных работ

Начинать процесс монтажа нужно только после того, как были приобретены все материалы и инструменты. Также нужно проверить есть ли возможность при существующей высоте потолка опустить его примерно на 8-10 см, но не меньше. В стандартных квартирах сделать это просто нереально. Но, выход из этой ситуации есть – как верхний ярус необходимо использовать базовый потолок. Он должен быть идеально ровным, и если на нем есть неровности, то их следует выровнять. Только тогда можно будет приступать к монтажу двухуровневого потолка.

Проектирование двухуровнего гипсокартонного потолка

Не имея детального чертежа конструкции, лучше всего к работам даже не приступать. В случае с одноуровневым потолком, его наличие не обязательно, поскольку особо сложных расчетов там нет. Но, вот сделать двухуровневый потолок из гипсокартона без чертежа практически невозможно. Самым оптимальным решением будет создание 3D-модели будущего потолка. Это поможет немного упростить работу и определиться с формой потолка.

Когда проект будет полностью удовлетворять все ваши запросы и пожелания, тогда нужно рассчитать количество нужных материалов и приступить к прокладыванию электропроводки.

Коммуникации

Многоярусные конструкции дают возможность утеплить потолок и улучшить его звукоизоляцию. Но подобные работы нужно проводить только после того, как был установлен каркас. Если же говорить об электрической проводке, вентиляционных каналах и прочих коммуникациях, то их проводкой необходимо заниматься до того, как начнутся работы по монтажу потолка.

Местоположение светильников и их модели нужно продумать заранее. Это также касается и кондиционера или кухонной вытяжки, в том случае, если потолок будет монтироваться на кухне.

Решением подобных вопросов должны заниматься профессионалы, ведь они точно смогут сделать правильные расчеты и после заняться монтажом. Если в расчетах допущены ошибки, то после завершения работ  их невозможно будет исправить.

Иногда заказчик не может сразу купить необходимые приборы, которые нужно будет подключить к сети под подвесным потолком, например, светильники. Тогда нужно переписать их главные параметры, среди которых — мощность и габариты крепежной арматуры (для встраиваемых светильников). Как только эти работы будут закончены, необходимо зарисовать схему электропроводки и нанести на нее точные размеры.

Процесс монтажа

Есть несколько вариантов монтажа двухуровневого потолка, а каждый специалист отдает предпочтение тому или иному варианту. Например, некоторые сначала полностью делают каркас верхнего яруса, после облицовывают все его видимые части гипсокартонными листами. По завершению этих работ они приступают к монтажу нижнего яруса.

Другие мастера делают все наоборот, другими словами, сначала делается каркас нижнего яруса, а потом его крепят к базовому потолку.

Сказать конкретно, который из способов лучше нельзя, а его выбор зависит напрямую конструкции будущего потолка и также от площади второго яруса. Например, если площадь нижнего уровня намного превышает площадь верхнего, то плоский каркас для всего потолка делать не стоит. Во-первых, это лишние расходы металлического профиля и крепежей, а во-вторых, крепление к базовому потолку в таких случаях намного надежнее.

В том случае, если верхний уровень имеет вид узкого короба, идущего по периметру, или же в центре присутствует выступ, то двухуровневый потолок лучше всего монтировать первым способом.

О том, как делается плоский каркас верхнего уровня можно узнать из статьи о монтаже подвесного потолка из гипсокартона. Сейчас мы более подробно рассмотрим монтаж каркаса для нижнего уровня.

Монтаж каркаса для нижнего уровня

1. Прежде всего, на потолок следует нанести схему конструкции в реальном размере, провести горизонтальные линии на стенах, при этом нужно отступить от базового потолка примерно на глубину второго уровня.
2. Дальше вдоль данных линий необходимо закрепить направляющий профиль (ПНП 27х28). Для создания плавного изгиба нужно надрезать 2 смежные стены профиля, и после этого придать необходимую форму. Потом с помощью каждого сегмента нужно прикрепить профиль к потолку.
3. Дальше под направляющим профилем нужно сделать разметку. По этой разметке будет крепиться продольный потолочный профиль (ПП 60х27). При этом нужно следить, чтобы между осями было расстояние в 40 см.
4. По разметке нужно провести на стене перпендикулярные линии. Это проекции осей профилей. Именно по этим линиям требуется закрепить пружинные подвесы и соблюдать между ними расстояние 60 см. Помните, что ни в коем случае нельзя использовать дюбель-гвозди.  Для такого вида работ лучше взять анкерные дюбеля.  Если в доме случится пожар, то пластиковые дюбеля не смогут удержать конструкцию и она рухнет.
5. Из потолочного профиля нужно вырезать отрезки, длина которых отвечает глубине второго уровня. Потом в этих же отрезках нужно обрезать боковые полочки, примерно на высоту в 3 см, а основание оставить. Дальше эти перемычки ровной стороной вставляются в верхний направляющий профиль и прикручиваются к нему. Если это будут крепления на ровном участке, то нужно соблюдать шаг в 60 см, и 20-30 см — на криволинейных. Если в вертикальной стенке вы планируете разместить точечные светильники для гипсокартонных потолков, то прежде, чем крепить перемычки, необходимо сверяться со схемой.
6. Нужно сформировать на полу нижний профиль, повторяя фигуру на потолке. Проследите, чтобы профиль был повернут к стене. Для формирования изгиба необходимо подрезать 2 параллельные стороны, но не смежные.
7. Дальше готовую конструкцию необходимо прикрутить к перемычкам. При этом «язычок» профиля должен накладываться на основании профиля.
8. Необходимо вырезать полосы из гипсокартона и прикрутить их к каркасу. Их ширина должна отвечать глубине второго уровня. Дальше одну сторону картона нужно смочить водой и оставить примерно на час, но предварительно с помощью специального игольчатого валика нужно сделать перфорацию. Это нужно для того, чтобы изогнуть полосу гипсокартона.
9. Теперь очередь продольного профиля ПП, который нужно закрепить между направляющими. Это необходимо для закрепления второго уровня. Каждый профиль нужно измерять по месту. Прежде, чем приступать к установке, нужно на продольные ПП-профили одеть «крабы», которые необходимы, чтобы соединить их с поперечными.
10. Поперечные профили нужно установить в лапки «крабов», потом скрепить небольшими саморезами по металлу.
11. Теперь осталось только зафиксировать на подвесах продольные профили и выставить их по уровню.

Установка каркаса верхнего уровня

[reclam]

После того, как вы завершили предыдущий этап, вы уже будете все знать о том, как сделать двухуровневый потолок из гипсокартона.

Плоский каркас для верхнего уровня нужно собирать на прямых подвесах, а все нюансы процесса уже известны вам. Нужно так же соблюдать между осями расстояние 40 см, а перемычки крепить на стыке листов гипсокартона.

Облицовка гипсокартоном

Перед, тем как приступать к обшивке, нужно повторно свериться со схемой коммуникаций, и если возникнет необходимость, то в тех местах, где будут крепиться тяжелые светильники, нужно усилить конструкцию. После этого концы проводов нужно опустить, и позаботиться о тепло— и шумоизоляции каркаса. Только после завершения этих работ можно приступать к облицовке.

И в конце статьи, хотелось отметить, что там, где гипсокартон примыкает к стенам, с него нужно срезать заводскую фаску. То самое нужно проделать и в местах примыкания к вертикальной ступени второго уровня. В таких местах лист тоньше, а это может привести к проблемам с отделкой потолка.

Facebook

Twitter

Вконтакте

Google+

90000 How to Install a Drywall Ceiling 90001 90002 Ceiling drywall installation is a tough job that will require at least two people to complete. If at all possible the drywall or plaster should be repaired instead to avoid the trouble of installing drywall. If, however, a new ceiling is a must, this page contains some tips for layout, adding furring strips, and supporting the drywall sheets while you’re attaching them to the ceiling. 90003 90004 90002 To use furring strips as support for drywall over an existing ceiling, they should be installed perpendicular to the ceiling joints.First determine which way your ceiling joists run. You may need to go into an attic or basement to determine the framing layout. In most cases, all floor and ceiling joists in a house will be aligned in the same direction, so if you can find the floor joist in a basement, you can surmise the direction of your ceiling joists also. 90003 90002 If there’s no access to get a visual on the framing, check the flooring. If you have strip wood flooring, it will be running perpendicular to the floor joists.Likewise, if you can determine which are load bearing walls, they will be running perpendicular to the joists. You may also notice nail pops or cracks in a ceiling which can also indicate the direction of joists. Use clues like these to determine where to expect to find the ceiling joists in a room. 90003 90002 Once you have determined the direction your joists are running, there are a couple methods you can use to locate them behind the ceiling plaster. You can use a stud finder which is easy enough but can be pricey if you do not already have one on hand.Alternately, you can use the tap and listen method to locate wood framing. Start by tapping on the ceiling with the butt of a hammer or other solid instrument. Listen as you tap across the ceiling for a sharp sound indicating a solid wood behind, or a dull sound indicating a hollow space. 90003 90002 Go across the ceiling tapping with the hammer and listening for the different sounds. When you narrow the location, use a drill with an eighth inch bit to bore into the ceiling where you expect to find the joist.If the bit passes easily through missing the framing, continue drilling at one inch intervals in both directions until you meet resistance and wood is ejected from the hole indicating the location of the joist. Measure out 16 inches and check for the next joist with the drill. If none is found, use the tapping and drilling method to find it. Once you’ve located 2 joists, measure the space between them and use that to calculate the general location of those remaining. Confirm the location of each joist using the drill bit and then mark that point on the walls at each end of the room.90003 90013 Mark the Ceiling Joists Locations 90014 90015 90002 Locate all the joists and mark their center on the wall at both ends of the room. Have a helper on one side of the room and stretch a chalked string tightly between each corresponding wall mark. Hold the string taut while pulling it away from the ceiling slightly. Let go of the string so it snaps back leaving a chalk mark across the entire ceiling indicating the location of the joist. 90003 90013 Layout the Furring Strips 90014 90020 90002 Plan to fasten the first furring strip along one wall and then place the center of the next one 16 inches from the wall.Measuring from the wall, install the remaining strips at 16 inch intervals across the ceiling. Fasten each so the center is right at the 16 inch mark to be sure the 4×8 ft drywall sheets will be supported along each edge. At the end of the ceiling there will be something other than 16 inches left. Here, install the last furring strip butted against the wall like the first one. 90003 90013 Install the Furring Strips 90014 90025 90002 Use 1×2 or 1×3 furring strips placed perpendicular to the joists.Hold them in place and to avoid splitting the board, drill a pilot hole through it and into the joist. Drive 2 inch drywall screws to fasten the strips to the joist. Use longer screws if you’re dealing with thick plaster or the 2 inch does not engage the joist. Countersink the screw heads to be sure the drywall will lay as flat as possible over the strips. Go across the room and drill and fasten the strips at each joist. If possible, use two drill / drivers to make this part easier. 90003 90002 When all the strips are in place, go along the walls and mark the mid-point of each with a pencil or other non-staining marker.Make the marks far enough down the wall to see them when the drywall is in place. 90003 90013 Layout the Drywall 90014 90032 90002 Some jurisdictions may require a fire resistant drywall, known as Type X, for ceiling installation so check to be sure you use the right kind of material. 90003 90002 Plan to hang the drywall in full sheets along the corner with the first wall, running parallel with the furring strips. Use as many full sheets as possible to fill out the space, butting the opened ends together.At the end of the run, if you need a small piece to finish, cut a full sheet to size and fit it into the last space so the opened end butts to the opened end of the last full sheet. 90003 90002 Run the second row with the first full sheet starting at the opposite end of the room. Hang it so it joins the first row along the finished edges. Run as many full sheets as possible and then cut a small piece to finish out the space butting the ends as before. Staggering the open-end joints like this will make them easier to hide when finishing the seams.90003 90002 Hang the remaining drywall to finish out the ceiling starting at opposite ends of the run with each new row. At the other side of the room there will likely be a small space left to fill. Cut a full sheet of drywall lengthwise to fill out this space so a finished edge is available to mate with the finished edge of the last full row. Always mate like edges together, do not join a finished edge with an opened edge, it will create a very noticeable bulge in the finished seam. 90003 90013 Hang the Drywall Sheets 90014 90043 90002 You can use a construction adhesive to help secure the new drywall sheets in place.This is not absolutely necessary and if you decide to do it, use a caulk gun to apply the adhesive along the furring strips just before lifting the drywall into place. Using adhesive will reduce the number of drywall screws needed to secure the sheets and prevent any possible sagging over time. 90003 90002 To install the first sheet, lift it into place and push it tightly into the corner and against both wall surfaces. Check to be sure about half the furring strip is showing on the outer edge and hold or support the sheet (see tee support below) while fastening it to the strips with drywall screws.Use a screw gun with a clutch function to uniformly sink the heads just below the drywall surface without tearing the paper covering. 90003 90002 Drive a few screws at the first strip along the wall and then put a few more along the outer edge to hold the sheet temporarily. To drive the remaining screws accurately, use a chalked string to mark the furring strip location along the sheet. Drive the screws along each strip about every 6 inches. Place the end screws back 3/8 to 3/4 inch from the open edge of the drywall.90003 90013 Support Ceiling Drywall with a Tee 90014 90052 90002 Using a homemade tee for support will make hanging a drywall ceiling much easier. After a sheet of drywall has been lifted into place, wedge the tee under it to support the weight while adjusting the position and driving the screws. 90003 90002 Make the top of the tee about 3 feet long and the leg a bit longer than the new ceiling height. Because this support only needs to hold the weight temporarily, it does not have to be perfectly straight up and down.A quarter inch extra length is usually sufficient to get a tight wedge against the drywall but if the height varies more than that, it may be too short in some places. Shifting the tee placement will usually solve this problem but if the variance is extreme, a longer leg will help compensate for larger differences. 90003 90057 More Like This on Do-It-Yourself-Help.com 90058 .90000 How to Apply Drywall Texture on Walls and Ceilings 90001 90002 90003 Drywall textures are created using several different methods. The most common of these are spray-on finishes like knockdown, orange peel, and popcorn. These are usually done on new construction by professional crews using special equipment. For instance, popcorn is applied with a hopper that stirs and mixes the finish as it is blown onto the wall or ceiling surface. Knockdown and orange peel are applied in basically the same way with professional grade machines that spray the finish onto large areas.In some cases, as with knockdown, a joint knife is used to flatten the texturing material and create the finished effect. 90004 90003 A second type of drywall texture that can be done on a smaller scale is texturing paint. These include sand and stucco coatings commonly used on ceilings more than walls. The coating is applied using a brush and then manipulated to create a pattern in the finish. Another technique for applying a textured finish, that can be done on large or small areas, involves the use of joint compound to create a rough surface rather than the normally smooth finish associated with drywall.90004 90007 Applying Drywall Textures 90008 90003 Realistically there are only two texturing techniques possible on a small scale at home: paint textures and joint compound techniques including knockdown. Apply textured paints over a primer to ensure a good bond with no flashing in the finish coat. These coatings are not meant to go over bare surfaces and will pull away as you try to brush or roll them on. 90004 90003 Apply the coating using a brush to cover a small area at a time, then combed, rolled or brush the surface to create a design in the finish.These coating can also be applied using a specially made roller with nylon loops braided into the nap. As it rolls back and forth, the roller loops pull the surface of the coating away to leave random peaks in the finish. It can be difficult to get textured paint to cover with this method, so brushing on and then rolling with the loops can be easier, though more steps are involved. In any case, these coatings will resist sticking and require a very full roller and repeated back and forth strokes to get good coverage.This can make doing an entire wall or ceiling difficult. 90004 90013 Applying Joint Compound Textures 90014 90003 Drywall textures involving joint compound, also called mud, can be done using a number of different tools such as a trowel, a brush or a broom to create a design in the finish. The basic process is the same, apply a coat of joint compound over a surface and while it’s wet, press a tool into the mud to leave a decorative finish. Ceilings are usually where you’ll find a finish like this but walls may also be decorated with texturing.90004 90003 One common joint compound texturing technique involves the use of a masonry trowel pressed flat against the surface and then pulled straight off to pull peaks in the mud, leaving a stippled appearance. The peaks can be small and delicate or they can be coarse and thick. The thickness of the mud coat will determine the size of the peaks. 90004 90003 A variation of the trowel method involves turning the tool while it is in contact with the surface. Turn the trowel 360 ° to leave circles in the finish or turn 180 ° to create arches in the finish.This can be done in an ordered pattern of straight lines or the design may be random across the surface. 90004 90003 Another way to do a finish like this involves the use of a nylon broom or brush to slap the wet mud. Use a broom with soft, floppy bristles that will yield when it comes in contact with the surface. Apply mud to the entire surface first and then go over it with the broom. 90004 90003 Also try a large, soft sponge like a sea sponge to create swirls and stippling, or a wallpaper brush with short, stiff nylon bristles to comb a texture into the wet mud.This can be done in straight lines or randomly with circles or arches. 90004 90007 Matching a Drywall Texture 90008 90003 When it comes to drywall textures there’s a hugh number of finishes out there. Because these are applied using several different techniques and materials, with different tools, the resulting finishes can be hard to match when doing repairs and harder to blend at the edges. The best that can be done in most cases is to simulate the finish over the repair and live with an obvious border around the edges.90004 90013 Matching Spray-Ons 90014 90003 The hardest finishes to match seamlessly are popcorn and orange peel. Because these are specially made coatings, applied using specialized sprayers, they are virtually impossible to simulate exactly for an invisible repair. You can buy small amounts of these finishes in a spray can and use it to apply the finish over the repaired area. Work from the center out and spray lightly at the border to try and blend the new and old texture. 90004 90013 Matching Knockdown 90014 90003 Knockdown, while originally applied with a sprayer, is easier to simulate and blend than popcorn and orange peel.Because knockdown texturing is just watered-down ready-mixed joint compound, spattered randomly across the wall, it is much easier to simulate with standard drywall tools. 90004 90003 Mix joint compound with water at about a 10 to 1 ratio to get a thin mud that pours but is not so runny that it slides right off a joint knife. Use a scrub brush with soft, short bristles and dip it into the wet mud. Hold the brush upside down and pull you thumb over the bristles quickly to splatter the surface with a random covering.Use a little mud to get small spatter and a thick load to get large spatter. 90004 90003 While the mud is wet, lightly drag a joint knife (about 6 inches or more) over the spatters to flatten them. You may want to practice this technique on a scrap of cardboard to match the existing finish before moving to the repair. 90004 90013 Matching Textured Paint 90014 90003 Use the same type of textured paint as the original finish. Recreate the finish on small wall repairs using a brush to apply a thick coat over the patch.Then hold a looped roller by hand and tap the surface of the paint to pull it up in peaks that match the existing finish, working from the center out. Wet the roller nap with paint first to avoid pulling too much off. If a 9 inch roller is too big to work on small repairs, cut the roller down to a size that will work. 90004 90013 Matching Joint Compound 90014 90003 To recreate an existing joint compound texture, first examine the finish and determine how it was created originally considering the methods described above.Use ready-mixed compound straight from the bucket and practice this method on a piece of scrap drywall or cardboard. Start with about ¼in. coat of mud and vary it as needed to get the right thickness for your finish. 90004 90003 When you’re ready, move to the wall or ceiling. Make sure to apply the mud thick enough to saturated the surface. If there are dry spots on the wall, the mud will pull right back off when you try to apply the finish. If necessary, use a spray bottle to mist the surface with water first before applying the mud.Start from the center of the repair and work out to the surrounding finish. Try to blend the new and old finishes together around the perimeter using a light touch. 90004 90007 Removing a Drywall Texture 90008 90003 Removing an existing textured finish may or may not be possible, depending on the material used to create it. In addition, if it’s been painted it will complicate the job further. Joint compound finishes can sometimes be removed using the spray and scrape method described below.In other cases, it may be possible to scrape the finish off with a joint knife. For instance, if the mud was applied over a primed or painted surface, it may pop off with minimal effort. 90004 90003 Test this possibility by using a thin putty knife to chip an opening in the surface and see if the blade will slip under and pop the finish off. If it begins to come free, use a wider blade to remove larger sheets. Usually, if the putty knife test works to begin peeling the finish, it’s a good bet it will all come off this way.If the finish becomes difficult to remove in places use a chisel blade joint knife and hammer to force it off. A razor-blade scraper may also improve results. These may cause minor damage to the surface but that can be easily repaired with a little joint compound. 90004 90013 Skim Coating Over Texturing 90014 90003 If a joint compound texture was applied over bare drywall, it will not usually come off easily and a putty knife will not work to remove it. In these cases, the finish can be chipped, sanded, and then skim coated.This is a very dusty and difficult way to remove a textured finish and most people choose either to live with what they have or install a new drywall ceiling over it instead. 90004 90003 If you choose to chip and sand, use a chisel blade joint knife to remove the bulk of the texture first and then use a belt or rotary sander to smooth it out as much as possible and minimize the need to fill in with new joint compound . Remove sanding dust with a shop-vac and wipe the surface with a damp rag or sponge.Prime with a flat latex paint to ensure a good bond with the new mud and then skim coated with several applications of joint compound. Expect to do 5 or more coats, sanding in between to build up a smooth finished ceiling. 90004 90013 About Wet Scraping Popcorn Texture 90014 90003 Popcorn texture can sometimes be removed using a wet scraping method. Before proceeding, check to see if your popcorn ceiling contains asbestos. This may be true if it was apply before 1980, at which time asbestos began to be phased out as a material for manufacturing popcorn texture.If your ceiling contains asbestos, you are prohibited in the US from hiring anyone other than a certified asbestos abatement contractor to do the job for you. This does not necessarily mean you can not do it yourself. You are allowed, but you must use caution if you choose the diy approach and check your local regulation for the laws concerning asbestos removal in your area. 90004 90003 Have your popcorn tested by a lab to see if it contains asbestos. If it does, follow the guidelines and procedures at this link for help with removing popcorn asbestos yourself.You will have to block off the room involved and cover every square inch of wall and floor space with thick plastic to contain the asbestos. Wet scraping is the only accepted procedure for asbestos removal. If you are not able to wet the popcorn because it has been painted, you will not be able to remove it because any release of the asbestos by dry scraping is prohibited by government regulations. 90004 90013 Removing Non-Asbestos Popcorn Ceiling 90014 90003 If your ceiling does not contain asbestos you can simply spray it with a soapy water solution and scrape off the resulting goo.First remove as much furniture, etc. as possible from the room and cover all floors and other vulnerable surfaces with plastic drop cloths. Use a compression sprayer and warm to hot, soapy water to soak the popcorn. Add the water to the sprayer first and then squirt in about a tablespoon of dishwashing liquid. Close the sprayer and shake it up a little to mix in the soap. 90004 90003 Work on a small, manageable area at a time spraying repeatedly with the water to soak the finish. When it’s good and wet, use a joint knife to scrape the popcorn off and deposit it into a plastic bag.It may be difficult to get the goo off the blade so try using a second joint knife to scrape it off the first and into a bucket or other receptacle. 90004 90003 When it has all been removed from one section, wipe the surface with a clean, wet rag or sponge. Rinse the rag frequently to remove all the remaining residue while it’s still wet, before moving on to a new section. 90004 90007 How to Paint Drywall Texture 90008 90003 If you want to paint a whole textured wall or ceiling, you can with a little care and preparation.First get a quality roller with a long nap of ¾inch or more. Thin your paint slightly to make it easier to push into all the nooks and crannies of the finish. If the texturing is subtle, you may not have to thin at all. If it’s very thick however, you will want to thin the paint a bit and maybe do two coats to get good coverage. 90004 90003 Cut in and then roll pressing lightly with the roller to avoid breaking peaks in the mud or pulling the material off as much as possible. Go over the same space repeatedly with the roller, or use the brush to try and fill all the little crevices in the finish.You will most likely miss some spots, watch for this and touch up the missed spots with a brush or use the roller at an angle to press paint into the gaps. 90004 90013 Painting Popcorn Ceiling 90014 90003 If you’re painting a popcorn ceiling, expect a good amount of it to come off in the wet roller. Allow the roller to fill with the particles as you roll and they will redistribute over the ceiling as you work. This works well to create a shell of paint that will contain the popcorn when it has dried.This is an advantage when your popcorn ceiling material contains asbestos because the coating will help contain any dust. 90004 90003 The loose bits will also get in the roller tray, just allow this to happen and fill the roller as usual. Keeping it well loaded as you work will minimize the particles that come off on the roller. When you’re done painting the ceiling and you need the remainder to be free of debris, pass it through a strainer or old nylon pantyhose to clean it up. 90004 90013 Touch Up on Textured Finishes 90014 90003 If you have the original paint you’re all set, if not, see this link for help matching existing colors.Touch up on small repair patches using a soft brush to gently apply the paint, watch for missed spots in creases and at the edges. Let the paint dry and go back to catch any missed spots or do an entire second coat over the whole repair if you can still see the patching compound. 90004 90093 More Like This on Do-It-Yourself-Help.com 90094 .90000 How to Repair Large Holes in Walls and Ceilings 90001 90002 The following method will work to fix large holes of a foot or more in drywall walls and ceilings. This process will not work on lath plaster, try one of the plaster repair techniques on this page instead. This drywall repair process requires the use of added wood framing to hold the new patch in place. To repair smaller wall holes of several inches in both drywall and plaster without adding framing, try the repair process at this link.Check the bottom of this page for a video of this wall and ceiling repair technique. 90003 90004 90002 Use a piece of drywall the same thickness as the wallboard. Cut a square piece a bit larger than the damaged area and hold it over the hole to trace the outline onto the wall. 90003 90007 Cut Out the Square Hole 90008 90009 90010 90011 90002 Use a drywall saw to cut from inside the hole, out to each corner of the square. Cut a bit past the pencil mark at each corner to be sure the new drywall patch will fit easily without forcing.90003 90002 Score the pencil lines around the hole with a sharp drywall knife. Cut just a bit outside the lines to keep the squared hole large enough for the new patch to fit easily. 90003 90002 Snap off the sides of the damaged wallboard, pushing into the hole along the score lines. Cut through to the backing paper and remove the damaged pieces along each side of the squared hole. 90003 90007 Install the Wood Frame 90008 90020 90021 90022 90002 Hold the new drywall patch in place to check that it fits into the new hole easily without being forced.If necessary, trim around the edges of the hole to remove any obstructions that prevent a good fit. 90003 90002 Measure the opening of the squared hole and cut two furring strips, 6 inches longer than this measurement. 90003 90002 Hold each board against the squared hole and mark it with a pencil to indicate the edge of the hole. Make the mark so it will be visible when the board is held against the inside of the wall. 90003 90002 Insert each furring strip into the hole, placing it so the wall along the side of the square partially covers it.Using the marks for positioning at the top and bottom, attach the wood strip by driving drywall screws with a drill-driver through the wallboard and into the wood behind. 90003 90002 Keep the wood pressed tightly to the inside of the wallboard while driving the screws to avoid leaving a gap between the strip and the wall. Sink the screw heads just below the wall surface so they do not stick out and interfere with the patching compound. 90003 90007 Install the Drywall Patch 90008 90035 90036 90002 Place the new piece of drywall over the new framing and attach it with screws.Use at least 4 screws, one at each corner and sink the heads below the surface of the drywall patch. 90003 90002 Cover the seams around the new patch with fiberglass mesh tape. Overlap the ends at each piece of tape at the corners. 90003 90007 Apply a First Coat of Joint Compound 90008 90043 90044 90002 We use a 30 minute setting-type joint compound for the first two coats of this repair. The third and final coat is made using ready-mixed compound for easier final sanding and a smoother finish.90003 90002 See these instructions to mix up a pan of setting compound, also called mud, and use a 6 inch joint knife to apply a first coat. «Butter» the surface with a thick coat that covers the tape and the surrounding wall surface. 90003 90002 Immediately go back and skim off the excess mud to leave a semi-rough coat behind. Go over the patch a couple times to remove most of the mud. Do not try to hide the tape or level out the wall with this first application, it will take a couple more coats to build up a smooth, level surface.Just use this coat to stick the tape down and start to blend the new patch with the surrounding wall. 90003 90007 Apply a Second Coat of Compound 90008 90053 90054 90002 Let the mud set until it is dry to the touch and then lightly sand the tape with medium grit sandpaper. Go easy with the sandpaper to just knock off any mesh fibers and ridges in the mud, do not dig into the fiberglass. Lightly wipe off the sanding dust with a damp rag. 90003 90002 Mix and apply a second coat of setting compound.Use a wider joint knife this time to spread a thick coat over the whole patch and spread it out to overlap the first coat. 90003 90002 Immediately go back over it to skim off the excess using parallel strokes from one side to the other. Try to make the mud level with the surrounding wall as much as possible, but do not let it protrude past the wall level. Ignore any ridges left by the edge of the blade between strokes, you can knock them off before applying the next coat. Allow the mud to set until completely hard.90003 90007 Apply a Third Coat of Compound 90008 90063 90002 Scrape off any ridges in the mud using an upward stroke of the joint knife to shave them off. Sand if necessary to remove any other roughness and wipe off the dust. 90003 90002 Apply a third coat of mud over the whole patch using ready-mixed joint compound. Use the same method of applying a thick coat first and then skimming off the excess to smooth the surface. To aid in getting a level surface, stroke in the opposite direction of the previous coat.If you skimmed the mud horizontally before, skim with vertical strokes this time. 90003 90007 Sand and Touch Up the Paint 90008 90070 90002 After the mud dries apply another coat, if necessary, to fill any scratches or pits in the surface, do not try to sand these out, you’ll make the surface uneven. If another coat is needed, sand lightly, wipe off the dust, and apply the mud going perpendicular to the previous coat. 90003 90002 Allow the final coat of mud to dry completely and then sand the whole area.Use medium sandpaper to sand the patch and feather the edges into the surrounding surface. 90003 90002 Wipe away the sanding dust with a damp rag and touch up the paint over the repair. If you are using flat latex finish paint, it will be self-priming. If you are using semi-gloss or other shiny finish paint, prime the patch first with flat latex paint or a latex primer before touching up. 90003 90077 More Like This on Do-It-Yourself-Help.com 90078 90079 90080 .90000 How to Skim Coat Walls and Ceilings 90001 90002 90003 Skim coating is the process of applying a very thin covering of joint compound, also called mud, to smooth out rough wall and ceiling surfaces. This can involve the application of a single coat of mud to hide minor imperfections or it can involve the use of several coats to build up a smooth, finished surface. In addition, skim coating can be done over a small area or it can be done over an entire wall / ceiling surface. Check the bottom of this page for a video demonstrating how to apply a skim coat.90004 90005 About Skim Coating Compounds 90006 90007 90003 There are two types of joint compound that can be used for skim coating: setting-type joint compound and ready-mixed joint compound. 90004 90003 Setting compound is a powder that sets to a very hard finish when mixed with water, similar to the way concrete sets. It comes in setting rates of a few minutes to an hour or more. Ready-mixed joint compound comes wet and ready to use out of the bucket. It takes several hours to dry and is soft compared to setting compound.90004 90003 Which compound to choose depends on the surface to be skimmed. For most major damage, the best choice is setting compound. This would include any water-damaged plaster or drywall, and very rough surfaces like drywall textures that will require several coats of mud to smooth out. Use a relatively slow setting compound like Durabond90® for big jobs like this. 90004 90003 Use ready-mixed compound for finishing drywall and for minor wall imperfections requiring one or two coats to cover.Ready-mixed is also good for the final coat over any skim coating job. It’s easier to spread than setting-type, allowing for a thinner application and it’s soft, making a smooth finish easier to achieve when sanding. 90004 90005 Wall Preparation for Skim Coating 90006 90018 90003 Skim coating can be done over most paint finishes with no special preparation. As long as the surface is ready for repainting, it will also be ready for skim coating. However, if the surface has been damaged, exposed to water or if you have a very shiny paint to cover, some preparation will be necessary to ensure no bubbling develops in the finish when you’re done.90004 90005 Before skim coating: 90006 90023 90024 Make sure the surface is clean. Use a degreaser to wash painted surfaces that are stained or covered with an oily film. 90025 90024 Sand slick, shiny paint surfaces with medium sandpaper to scuff them up a bit or prime with a flat paint and let it dry completely to dull the shiny finish. 90025 90024 Repair any water stained surfaces and seal them with primer-sealer before skim coating. 90025 90024 If the paint is peeling or plaster and joint compound are popping off, remove all the loose material, wipe away all dust, and coat with primer-sealer.Repair the damage as needed and finish the repair with a few skim coats to smooth the surface. 90025 90032 90005 Mixing Setting-Type Joint Compound 90006 90035 90036 90037 90003 Use a mud pan to mix small amounts of mud at a time for skim coating. Use a 2 to 1 ratio of powdered compound to cool, clean water. To be sure you can use the mud before it sets, start with about a cup of powder. 90004 90003 Add about a half cup of water and mix the mud so it’s thick enough to remain on a joint knife when held upside down.If your mixture is too thin and soupy, add a little more powder until you get the right consistency. This type of joint compound will set quickly, so use it right away. 90004 90003 Collect the wet mud onto one side of the pan, scooping it up with the knife and scraping it onto the rim. This will help to keep it under control and avoid spreading it to unwanted areas which can create a mess and make it harder to get a smooth finish. 90004 90003 Transfer the mud to the work surface by «cutting» a portion from the rim of the pan, and then spreading it back and forth like buttering a piece of toast.90004 90003 90047 Note: 90048 After powdered compound sets for a few hours it will be hard to remove from tools, etc. To avoid the extra cleanup later, scrape off the hardened mud right away. Use a razor-blade glass scraper or putty knife to shave the set mud from the pan and joint knife into a trash container. Do not wash it down plumbing drains, it will set in the pipes and cause a clog. 90004 90005 Apply the First Skim Coat 90006 90052 90053 90003 Apply a thick coat of mud, holding the knife at about a 30 ° angle to lay it on 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick.Cover the whole area to be skimmed and let the mud overlap onto the surrounding surface. 90004 90003 Immediately go back and «skim» the excess mud from the surface. Hold the joint knife at a 30 ° angle and press down hard as you pull it in one complete stroke, from one side of the area to the other. Return the collected mud to the rim of the pan. Skim off the remaining excess mud with parallel stokes, leaving a consistently thin layer behind. Ignore small ridges between strokes as you go, you can remove them later after the compound has set.90004 90003 Between each stroke, be sure to scrape the excess mud from the knife blade back onto the rim of the pan. Keeping the blade as clean as possible will make the job easier and improve the results. 90004 90005 Apply a Second Skim Coat 90006 90062 90063 90003 When the mud sets, scrape off any ridges using the joint knife in upward strokes and lightly sand with medium grit sandpaper. If there are a lot of ripples, bumps or other protrusions on large areas, use a sanding block or pole sander to go over it lightly.Vacuum up dust and lightly wipe the whole area with a damp cloth or sponge before applying a second coat. 90004 90003 To apply a second coat use the same technique of buttering and skimming used with the first, but this time remove the mud, stroking in a perpendicular direction. If your first coat was applied horizontally, stroke vertically with the second coat. This will help to level the surface by filling any ripples and other irregularities in the first coat. Allow the mud to set and dry completely before proceeding.90004 90003 Apply as many subsequent skim coats as needed to build a smooth finish over the repair area. As you work, if there is excessive rippling or other surface imperfections, sand them lightly and wipe the dust away with a damp rag before applying another coat. Always alternate the direction of your strokes with each new coat, and always clean the blade off on the pan after each stroke. 90004 90005 How to Skim Coat a Whole Wall or Ceiling 90006 90072 90073 90003 Skim coating an entire wall or ceiling will require plenty of time to work before the mud gets hard.To avoid problems, use ready-mixed joint compound for large areas whenever possible. If you need to fill in a thick texture on a large area, use setting compound to make the deep fills and build up the finish and then use ready-mixed for the last couple of coats. 90004 90003 To skim a whole wall, work on a manageable swath of a few feet at a time. Working from the ceiling to about midway down the wall, apply the mud with back and forth strokes and immediately skim off the excess working from top to bottom.90004 90003 Next, move down and work from the baseboard up to the midpoint. Skim stroking up to overlap the top part a bit and blend the two parts together. Work in small rows like this, across the wall to the next corner. 90004 90003 On ceilings work across in 3 or 4 foot rows, breaking each into manageable sections. Work all along one wall, stroking back into previous sections to overlap and blend with the new section. 90004 90003 When you reach the other side of the room, start a second row across the ceiling working parallel with the first.Blend the mud together along all edges as you go. If after you’re done, a second coat is needed over the whole ceiling, work perpendicular to the first coat to aid in leveling the overall finish. 90004 90005 Sand the Final Coat 90006 90086 90003 When you’ve built up the surface so it’s fairly smooth, allow the final coat to set and dry completely. If you’re using ready-mixed compound it’s best to leave it to dry overnight, setting mud can be sanded in a couple of hours. 90004 90003 Use 120 sandpaper for setting compound, and 220 for softer, ready-mixed compound.Sand with light pressure, in wide arching strokes to remove any small bumps and ridges over the surface. Feather the edges of the mud so it blends smoothly into the surrounding surface. 90004 90003 Use a sanding pole to sand a whole wall working from the ceiling down to the floor and across to the next corner. Sand ceilings using a sanding pole working along one wall and then out toward the other side of the room. 90004 90003 Vacuum up the dust and wipe lightly with a damp cloth or sponge to remove all the residue from the surface before priming and painting.If you are using flat latex finish paint, it will be self-priming. If you are using semi-gloss or other shiny finish, prime with flat latex paint or a latex primer first. 90004 90095 More Like This on Do-It-Yourself-Help.com 90096 90097 90098 90003 90100 90098 90004 .