Как сделать кровать из дсп своими руками: Кровать из ЛДСП своими руками

Двухъярусная кровать из лдсп своими руками, готовые чертежи

При обустройстве небольшой детской комнаты, рассчитанной на двух и более детей, нередко лучшим решением оказывается двухъярусная кровать из ЛДСП. Ее можно установить в свободный угол или подготовленную нишу общей комнаты, если квартира совсем уж малогабаритная. Производителями готовой корпусной мебели предлагается масса моделей разного дизайна, цветовой гаммы и комплектации. Часто делают двухъярусные кровати своими руками и на заказ, когда нужны определенные размеры и оформление.

Стоит ли делать двухъярусную кровать из ЛДСП своими руками?

Для изготовления двухъярусных кроватей своими руками, как и другой детской мебели, обычно используют следующие материалы:

• Дерево. В плане конструктивных решений, дизайна и ценовой категории, этот материал дает действительно безграничные возможности для выбора. Можно разработать и изготовить модуль двухъярусной кровати из мебельных щитов натурального массива любых пород дерева. Либо собрать каркасную конструкцию из бруса и обработанных досок с последующей облицовкой каких-то частей листовыми материалами. Немало вариантов изготовления двухъярусных кроватей из фанеры.
• Металл. Чаще всего металлические сварные или сборные (на зацепах) конструкции используются для изготовления самого каркаса двухъярусной кровати с последующим оформлением бортиков, изголовий и спинок деталями из фанеры, ДСП, МДФ. В плане прочности металл дает несомненное преимущество перед остальными вариантами. Но при этом ограничивает дизайн и возможности расширения функционала.
• ДСП. Самый бюджетный и простой вариант – это изготовление двухъярусной кровати своими руками из ламинированного ДСП. Но это решение имеет ряд недостатков, требующих отдельного рассмотрения (далее в статье).
• МДФ. В основном МДФ используется для оформления «фасада» кроватей, поскольку имеет гораздо большие декоративные возможности по сравнению с ламинированным ДСП. Многих привлекает экологичность материала и, на первый взгляд, вопрос — почему бы не сделать двухъярусную кровать не из ДСП, а из МДФ? — кажется очень разумным. Однако полностью делают двухъярусные кровати из МДФ довольно редко, из экономических соображений. Фанера, мебельные щиты обойдутся дешевле, при этом главное преимущество (экологичность) будет тем же.

Судя по популярности и отзывам, двухъярусные кровати из дерева предпочтительнее для изготовления своими руками, чем ДСП. Хотя объективно, как раз ЛДСП проще и в обработке, и в последующей сборке, а в процессе изготовления требует меньше ручного инструмента и навыков.

Почему ламинированное ДСП вызывает сомнение при выборе материала для изготовления детских двухъярусных кроватей

В основном при выборе людей смущает экологичность материала. О формальдегидах и прочих вредных веществах, которые содержатся в древесно-стружечной плите, в отзывах наслышаны многие. Фраза-манипулятор «да это как надо своего ребенка-то не любить, чтобы на кровать из ДСП положить!» в различных вариациях звучит довольно часто. Однако, это не более чем манипулирование сознанием и какие-то маркетинговые уловки.

В современном ламинированном ДСП «нормального» фабричного качества с должной обработкой торцов практически нулевая эмиссия. Да и сама детская комната – не то помещение, которое эксплуатируется в каких-то особых условиях повышенной влажности с постоянным нагревом поверхностей, как например, на кухне или ванной комнате. И по всем рекомендациям педиатров, должна постоянно проветриваться. В таких условиях говорить о вредности ДСП будет лишним.

Главный недостаток ДСП – это хрупкость, негибкость материала. В сравнении с волокнистой фактурой дерева, фанеры «стружка» сильно проигрывает.

Действительно прочные и надежные двухъярусные кровати из ДСП довольно громоздкие. Их невозможно сделать «легкими», как например, при сборке из деревянного бруса или профильной металлической трубы. Визуально высокая, «литая» кровать в 2 яруса из ДСП сделает малогабаритную комнату еще меньше, «отрезав» от нее два квадрата площади (а то и больше, в зависимости от дизайна и комплектации модуля дополнительными шкафчиками). А вот каркасные конструкции более «воздушные», пропускают свет, поэтому сохраняют ощущение простора и свободного места в детской.

Главный совет — при выборе готовой двухъярусной кровати из ЛДСП обращайте внимание на прочность и надежность конструкции. Некоторые производители явно пренебрегают соображениями безопасности детей, максимально «облегчая» модули, экономя на материале или продвигая какой-то интересный дизайн. Висящие без опоры углы второго яруса, скользкие и узкие ступеньки без перил и низкие ограждения – это потенциальная опасность. Всегда оценивайте риски.

Двухъярусная кровать из ЛДСП: принцип проектирования на примере фото и чертежей

При проектировании и разработке чертежа двухъярусной кровати из ламинированного ДСП в первую очередь обеспечивают прочность конструкции опор (боковин) и основаниям спальных мест.

Боковины двухъярусной кровати из ЛДСП чаще всего цельные, с широким ребром жесткости по стене. Под спальное место «подкладывают» решетку из планок для прочности. Основание фиксируют на специальные прикроватные уголки с большой площадью крепления.

Можно сделать двухъярусную кровать из ДСП своими руками как на фото, со сборными боковинами в виде уголков.

Такая модель более устойчивая, поскольку опоры расположены сразу в двух плоскостях. При этом смотрится она визуально легче и расход ДСП на нее меньше – а значит, и обойдется дешевле.

Чертеж основания и опор двухъярусной кровати своими руками

Дизайн-проект начинается с разработки конструкции. Важно хорошо продумать крепление основания кровати к опорам – оно должно быть предельно прочным. Лучше всего в этом плане «показывает» себя обрешетка, на которую «ложится» цельное ДСП.

Нижняя «обрешетка» обычно продляется до пола для дополнительной устойчивости конструкции.

Проектируем выдвижные ящики в основании

Ящики, как дополнительное место хранения под нижним ярусом кровати могут быть:

• Выкатными (на колесиках, без крепления к корпусу кровати).
• Выдвижными (на направляющих, с жестким креплением к опорам).

Во втором случае к стоевым нижнего яруса обычно добавляют поперечные планки. Они фиксируют внутренние перегородки в строго перпендикулярном положении. Это упрощает регулировку выдвижных механизмов и продляет срок их службы.

Без опор чертеж нижнего модуля двухъярусной кровати из ДСП мало чем отличается от обычной односпальной модели.

Планируем лестницу к двухъярусной кровати своими руками

По фото двухъярусной кровати можно в проекте «повторить» любую модель лестницы, дополнив ее ящиками и шкафчиками, если это требуется.

Оформляем общий дизайн модуля

Для жесткости конструкции можно добавить дополнительную полку над нижним ярусом кровати. Сквозь нее можно дополнительно закрепить всю конструкцию к стене для надежности.

После этого можно приступать к оформлению дизайна двухъярусной кровати из ДСП. Его можно по-разному обыграть за счет формы бортиков.

А также цветового решения.

Можно использовать вставки из МДФ, как на фото, или других материалов. Например, «сплести» верхние бортики из колец и шпагата, чтобы оформить двухъярусную кровать из ДСП в морском стиле своими руками. Или «собрать» бортики из деревянных планок.

Чертеж двухъярусной кровати из ЛДСП с размерами с расчетом деталей и картами раскроя

Размеры двухъярусной кровати из ДСП во многом определяются габаритами матрацев – верхнего и нижнего спального места. Пусть в нашем случае оба матраца имеют стандартные размеры для детских комнат – 800х1900. Тогда внешний габарит кровати, с учетом толщин опор и изголовий будет порядка 1950х850.

Нижний ярус детской кровати обычно располагают на уровне 350-450мм от пола, а верхний – 1200-1300мм, чуть ниже уровня глаз взрослого человека. Это расстояние оптимально и для комфортного сидения на «нижнем» основании.

Таким образом, обычно детская двухъярусная кровать из ЛДСП проектируется высотой 1500-1700мм.

Расчет деталировки ДСП двухъярусной кровати и составление карт раскроя

По чертежу с выставленными габаритными размерами, можно расписать так называемую деталировку – составить список деталей ДСП. Поскольку торец ЛДСП голый, следует сразу указать стороны для последующей оклейки. Удобнее всего это делать в таблице Ексель, с автоматическим подсчетом квадратуры всех материалов и погонажа кромки.

Двухъярусная кровать из ЛДСП в двухцветном варианте (как на последних чертежах) будет иметь такой раскрой ДСП:

Для оптимизации расхода материала можно часть темных деталей сделать светлыми. Или, наоборот, внутренние части выдвижных ящиков, невидимые после сборки части основания, обрешетки сделать темными.

4 листа ДСП – это минимальный расход для двухъярусной кровати прочной, надежной конструкции. Как видно по чертежу, «облегчать» его не стоит и незачем. Единственное, можно сделать аналогичный вариант без выдвижных ящиков – он обойдется дешевле.

Как сделать двухъярусную кровать из ЛДСП своими руками?

Изготовление мебели своими руками может растянуться во времени не хуже ремонта – поэтому лучше сразу спланировать все расходы и произвести все подготовительные работы.

Ручной инструмент

Чтобы сделать двухъярусную кровать из ЛДСП своими руками, потребуется минимальный набор инструмента:

1. Лобзик для распиливания деталей в размер. Рекомендую заказывать раскрой ЛДСП в месте покупки материала. Стоимость этой услуги не настолько значительно, чтобы экономить и делать раскрой двухъярусной кровати своими руками.
2. Шлифовальная машина, фрезер и утюг с канцелярским ножом, наджачка-нулевка. Шлифмашинка или ручной фрезер будут необходимы, если вы все-таки решите распиливать ДСП самостоятельно, для выравнивания поверхности торца. Затем, с помощью утюга и специальной меламиновой ленты можно оклеить торцы, излишки срезают канцелярским ножом и аккуратно сошлифовывают. Рекомендую заказать оклейку видимых торцов кромкой ПВХ также в сторонней организации. Как правило, эта услугу предлагают вместе с распилом.
3. Электродрель со сверлами диаметром 5, 8 мм, конфирматным сверлом, карандаш, рулетка, угольник, тонкое шило. Этот ручной инструмент понадобится для разметки отверстий под конфирматы и дальнейшего засверливания. Если вы предпочитаете засверливать детали в процессе сборки, то пригодятся струбцины.
4. Шуруповерт с битами под крестовое соединение и шестигранник, набор отверток, пассатижи, молоток, киянка, угольник и другой мелкий ручной инструмент, который есть практически у любого мастера для дальнейшей сборки двухъярусной кровати по месту. Для рассматриваемой модели нужен будет труборез или ножовка по металлу (чтобы распилить трубу для перекладин лестницы в размер).

Материал и фурнитура

По табличной форме расчета деталировки и кромки можно заранее «прикинуть» расходы на материал с распилом и оклейкой. По чертежу также составляется для закупки список фурнитуры и комплектующих.

Крепеж

Помимо основной фурнитуры, для сборки двухъярусной кровати своими руками понадобится дополнительный крепеж и метизы. Это конфирматы и шурупы для соединения деталей ДСП, прикручивания направляющих, фланцев труб лестницы и подпятников. А также уголки для усиления оснований, анкера для крепления к стене. Также понадобится двухсторонний скотч для установки фасадов ящиков, мелкие гвозди для днищ ДВП, мебельная стяжка и другой мелкий крепеж.

Матрацы

О заказе матрацев для двухъярусной кровати также стоит побеспокоиться заранее. Лучше перед началом проектирования узнать стандартные типовые размеры выбранного производителя. Нестандартные матрацы на заказ обходятся дороже и изготавливаются дольше.

Свободное место для сборки и установки

Практически все детали двухъярусной кровати из ДСП крупногабаритные, организовать сборку на «пятачке» будет невозможно. Перед завозом распиленных деталей следует освободить как минимум половину комнаты. Ведь их где-то нужно составить, чтобы было удобно рассортировать и вынимать нужные в процессе разметки и последующей сборки.

90000 Bunk bed with table with own hands — detailed drawings and production progress | With Your Hands 90001 90002 90003 90002 WHAT DO YOU NEED TO DO WITH YOUR HANDS FOR DOUBLE-BED BED 90003 90002 A simple construction has a full-size mattress above the working area and two shelves. 90003 90002 It saves space by occupying an area of ​​тисячі сімсот тридцять чотири × 2578 mm on the floor. Such a bed will perfectly fit into a children’s room, a student hostel or a small apartment, wherever space is required.The nodes of the structure are connected with the help of fasteners, which makes it easy to disassemble it and move it to another location. 90003 90010 90002 See also: Two-story bed with your own hands — drawings and a list of materials 90003 90010 90014 Start with sturdy bed pillars 90015 90002 1. Eat eight blanks of the specified size for the inner and outer legs A, B. Brief advice! To less strain, turning heavy sheets of plywood, lay them on the floor, laying plates of rigid foam, and cut the workpiece with a circular saw.90003 90002 2. Mark the contours of the inner leg A on the best side of the workpiece (Figure 1). Before marking the rounds, read the «Wizard’s advice». 90003 90002 3. Place another piece of the inner leg with the best side up next to the already marked workpiece, dock the edges and mark the mirror part of the part (photo A). Continue marking in such a way that four pairs of legs with mirror symmetry are obtained. In one pair of legs, the lower protrusions are absent (Figure 1). 90003 90002 4.Drill the eight legs with a jigsaw with a fine-tooth saw blade, leaving an allowance of about 3 mm outside the contour lines. 90003 90002 90003 90002 5. Insert a copy cutter with upper bearing into the collet of the router (see «Wizard’s advice»). By fixing a straight guide along the marking line A on one leg, straighten the edges to the contour lines on the straight parts of the part (photo B). On the curved sections, grind the edges to the lines using a grinding drum. Process in this way one leg with a lower lip and one without it.90003 90002 6. Using the ready-made legs A as templates, remove the milling cuttings on the remaining inner legs A. You should have three pairs of parts with a lower lip and one pair without a protrusion. 90003 90002 7. Mark in accordance with Fig. 2 and saw with the jigsaw eight external legs B, repeating the steps 2-6, but the marking of these details do on the worst side of the workpieces. Turning the inner leg A upwards with the best side, put it on the workpiece of the external leg B, align it along the marking lines, fix it with clamps and cut out the outline of the outer leg (photo C) to get a pair of parts consisting of the inner and outer legs.Mark the details of each pair on the inside so as not to confuse them later, and set aside the outer legs B to the side. 90003 90002 8. Glue and additionally fix the internal legs A to the screws so that four corner assemblies are produced (Fig. 3, photo D). Glue the legs parallel to the front or back of the bed, to the edges of the legs parallel to the ends. Gently align the parts along the entire length of the corner. 90003 90002 9. Glue the external legs B to the assemblies of the inner legs A (photo E) by placing the best side of the plywood from the outside.90003 90002 90037 Selection of plywood for making a bed with a ladder and table 90038 90003 90002 In order to save and improve the appearance, we made a bed of 19-millimeter coniferous plywood grade A-C (I / III), one side of which has no defects, and the other is covered with low-grade veneer. If you are planning to paint a finished structure, we recommend buying more expensive birch plywood, so that the finish is impeccable. Mark the details so that the best side of the plywood is outside.Knots in the inner layers sometimes form voids on the edges of the sawed parts, which need to be filled with putty to improve the appearance. 90003 90014 Assemble the frame of a bunk bed 90015 90002 1. Drill the outer end crossbars C, D, then the inner end bars E, F of the specified width, but leave the allowance 25 mm along the length. 90003 90002 2. Secure the clamps with external clamps C, D between the front leg A / B, which does not have a lower lip, and the rear leg with a ledge. 90003 90002 3.Mark in place the final length of the inner end beams E, F (photo F) and cut them by the marks. 90003 90002 4. Glue the inner end bars E, F to the corresponding outer crossbars C, D (photo G). Repeat the steps 2-4 for the other pair of A / B legs. 90003 90002 5. Saw the external longitudinal bars G, H of the specified dimensions, and the corresponding crossbeams I, J with the allowance 25 mm along the length. 90003 90002 6. Secure the clamps with external longitudinal bars G, H between the end assemblies AF.Mark in place the final length of the inner crossbeams I, J, as was done with the end bars in step 3. 90003 90002 7. Glue the inner crossbars I, J to the corresponding outer crossbeams (G, H), but not to the legs. When the glue dries, remove the crossbeams and grind the grooves for the screw ties (see «How to install the screeds»). 90003 90002 8. Connect the legs A / B, the upper and lower end crossbars C / E, D / F, the upper longitudinal crossbar G / I and the lower rear crossbar H / I, fastening them with screw ties (Fig.4 and 4a). Drill the holes for the connecting bolts (photo H) in the indicated places and insert the 30-millimeter bolts securing the parts C, D, G and H to the inner legs A. The rest of the bolts will be required when installing the headboard , footboard and side panels. 90003 90002 90061 Wizard’s advice: Take a larger milling cutter 90062 90003 90002 When milling the template, the part can be damaged if the guide bearing of the milling cuts into the void on the plywood edge. To avoid such trouble, use a larger-diameter copying cutter with a wide bearing resting on several layers of plywood veneer, unlike the narrow bearing of a small cutter.90003 90014 Make a bed 90015 90002 1. Saw end, short and longitudinal support bars K, L, M with bevels at the ends (Figure 4). Cut along the outer lower edge of each rail a fillet radius of 12 mm (Figure 4a). 90003 90002 2. Using glue and screws, fix the longitudinal support bars M on the inner side of the upper rungs I, aligning the bottom edge (Fig. 4). The end slats K to fix with screws, without gluing, along the bottom edge of the upper end beams E, screwing also the screws into the legs A.Attach the short L rails to the legs using glue and screws. 90003 90002 3. Drill wide and narrow bars N, O. Mesh 6-millimetric fillets along the edges on both sides. 90003 90002 4. Drill and count out two mounting holes at both ends of each N, O bar, and then fasten the strips to the longitudinal and short support rails of the L, M screws as shown in Fig. 5. Do not glue the straps. 90003 90002 5. Having drunk large and small panels P, Q, put them on top of the slats (Figure 5). 90003 90002 6.Drill the side boards R, the head S and the foot T of the specified dimensions and shapes (Fig. 5 and 6). Mark the upper arc of the headboard S with a flexible pattern. To mark the rounding, use a small coin. Arrange the parts as indicated, and fasten them with screws, without applying glue. 90003 90002 7. Through the 9-millimetric holes of the AJ frame, free from the holes, drill holes in the side boards R, the headboard S and the foot T (figure 5). Insert the 50-millimeter bolts and tighten them to secure the parts.90003 90002 90003 90014 Add workstation 90015 90002 1. Saw end plates U. Temporarily fixing them with clamps in place (Figure 5), note the final length of the longitudinal bars V. 90003 90002 2. Drill the oblique holes-pockets at both ends of the longitudinal strips V from the inside. Assemble the frame, fixing the end and longitudinal straps with glue and screws. 90003 90002 3. Attach the frame U / V to the frame A-T only with screws, without using glue (Fig. 5). 90003 90002 4. Saw the worktop W of the specified dimensions and mesh the 10-millimetric fillets along the leading edge on both sides (Figure 7).90003 90002 5. Gently glue the table top to the frame from the U / V bars, making sure that it does not stick to the AT frame. 90003 90010 90002 See also: Children’s double bed with their own hands — drawings 90003 90010 90014 Build a ladder 90015 90002 Note. If there is not enough space to place the ladder shown in this project, make a simple step ladder with crossbeams to get into the bed. 90003 90002 1. Saw the blanks for the outer and inner string X, Y. 90003 90002 2. Mark the steps from the top end of the outer bow string X.Using a large carpenter, mark the back edge of the string and the position of the upper step (Figure 8, photo I). 90003 90002 3. Fix a pair of special stops on the carpenter’s corner to mark the steps (photo J). If there are no such stops, or they can not be found, read the Wizard’s advice. 90003 90002 Place the square on the workpiece of string X, pressing the stops against the edge. Align the shoulder of the square, along which the step height (267 mm) is marked, with the intersection of the upper stage line and the bowstring edge.90003 90002 Circle the outer edges of the square with a pencil (photo K). Then move the square along the edge, aligning the edge of the same shoulder with the end of the line of the step that has just been spotted. 90003 90002 Continue the marking to the bottom of the workpiece. In total, four steps should be obtained, and the lower stage should also have a height of 267 mm (Figure 8). Mark the bottom edge of the bowstring with a horizontal line along which you want to cut the angle of the workpiece.90003 90002 4. Using a carpenter’s corner, mark the step of the same width and height on a plywood trim length of about 500 mm, the width of which is equal to the width of the outer bowstring X. Draw a rounding on the inner corner, circling a large can with a pencil. Cut out the contours with an electric jigsaw, leaving a small allowance near the lines. Smooth the edges smoothly to the lines to use this cut as a template for marking and milling. 90003 90002 5. On the plywood template, mark the corners of the inner corners on the outer string X, as shown in photo L.90003 90002 6. Carefully cut the outer string X with a jigsaw while driving the cutter next to the line. After fixing the plywood template on each step, finalize the edges of the bowstring with the milling cutter. 90003 90002 7. Attach the clamped outer string X to the workpiece for the second outer bowstring, placing the best sides of the plywood inside. Circle the prepared string and remove it. Drill the second string with a jigsaw, leaving a small allowance. Then, using the finished string, as a template, mesh the second string until the final shape.90003 90002 8. Mark the inner Y-string on the workpieces as shown in Fig. 8, using the external strings X as templates. Saw and milling the internal bowstring. 90003 90002 9. Glue the external strings X to the inner Y to get two pairs, placing the best side of the plywood from the outside. 90003 90014 Assemble the ladder of the bed 90015 90002 90003 90002 1. Drill the external bars Z with the allowance of 25 mm in length. Then, grab the inner crossbeams AA, the outer pillars BB and the internal pillars of the SS size.90003 90002 2. Mark out the outer pillars BB (Figure 8) and cut them into shape. 90003 90002 3. Glue together the X / Y bowstring, the inner cross bars AA, the outer pillars BB and the inner pillars of the SS, fixing the assembly with clamps. Mark in place the final length of the external bars Z, adjusting to the distance between the outer pillars BB and external strings X, opilite on the marks and paste into place (Figure 9). 90003 90002 4. Drill the upper stage DD, the middle shelf-step EE, the lower shelf-stage FF and the small steps GG of the indicated sizes.Shape the fillets with a radius of 6 mm along the leading edge on both sides of each part. 90003 90002 5. Replace the lower and middle shelf-steps FF, EE, fixing them with screws (Figure 9). 90003 90002 6. Saw the middle and bottom edge straps HH, II with the allowance 25 mm. Fit their length in place and glue to the middle and bottom shelf-steps (Figure 9, photo M). 90003 90002 7. Add the upper stage DD and two small steps GG (Figure 9). 90003 90014 Finishing and final assembly of a bunk bed 90015 90002 90003 90002 1.For convenience of work, disassemble the structure into separate parts. First, we primed all the surfaces with shellac, and then several times sprayed nitro-lacquer. You can paint the plywood with stain or paint. 90003 90002 2. When the coating dries, reassemble the bed, transferring it to the final installation site. You can attach the ladder with screws, screwing them through the X / Y strings and BB / SS pillars into the A / B feet. 90003 90002 3. The assembled structure should be located at the wall, so attach the handrail to the wall with a special fastener designed for this purpose.90003 90002 90061 How to install floor screeds 90062 90003 90002 Screw fasteners used to fasten large panels are recessed into milled grooves and tightly tighten legs and crossbeams, however, they make it possible to disassemble the frame if necessary (Figure 3 and 4). 90003 90002 To install them, make the template shown in the figure. Drill a hole, cut a slit width 10 mm with a saw. 90003 90002 To work with the template, place the 6-millimeter straight cutter in the collet and fix the copying sleeve with a diameter of 10 mm in the sole.90003 90002 Align the template in the middle of the width of the inner crossbar E, F, I, J, aligning the end of the slot with the end of the part, as shown in the photo, and securely secure. 90003 90002 Grind the groove over the entire thickness of the inner crossbar in a few shallow passes. Make such depressions at both ends of the inner crossbeams. 90003 90002 With the crossbar in place, mark the groove location on the adjacent inner leg A. Align the template to the marks and grind the recess in the foot.90003 90002 90061 Advice of the master: Spring clamps instead of special stops 90062 90003 90002 To mark the steps on the external string X, without any stops, take the usual spring clips and fasten them on the shoulders of the carpenter’s square. Be careful and careful that they do not move, and double-check the dimensions of the divisions on the angles before marking out each step. 90003 90010 90002 See also: Bed with sleeping place at the top and closet-pantry downstairs 90003 90010 90182 Detailed drawings of a bunk bed for making your own hands 90015 90184 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90204 90205 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP.FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS. 90206 90207 90208 Below other entries on the topic «How to make your own hands — a householder!» 90209 90210 A carved bed with my own hands — photo How to make your own wooden … 90211 90210 Folding bed with own hands (photo) How to make a folding bed your … 90211 90210 DIY car bed for children (+ DRAWINGS) BED-CAR FERRARI OWN HANDS For the manufacture of … 90211 90210 Children’s double bed with their own hands — drawings Drawings of a children’s bunk bed for… 90211 90210 Bed with sleeping place at the top and closet-pantry downstairs Do-it-yourself pantry bed To save space … 90211 90210 Beds with scarfs with their own hands How to make a baby bed from … 90211 90210 Bed-podium for a mattress made of wood by own hands «Podium» for the mattress ONE OF … 90010 90224 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90209 90224 Let’s be friends! 90209 90211.90000 Bunk bed with their own hands — blueprints and a list of materials | With Your Hands 90001 90002 Even in large houses, it is difficult to overestimate the value of 2 of a bunk bed, what about small flats where it will save just twice the area, rather than when installing two single-tiered beds. 90003 90002 Some craftsmen in large families make them even three-tiered, but it’s still, in my opinion, bust, every time fall asleep and be afraid to hear the knocking of the fall of your beloved child.Therefore, a bunk bed is what you need, since it will suit most families. 90003 90002 And then it is noticed that the children sleep with bunks on a bunk bed, (especially if they have ordinary ones in the kindergarten, it is noticed on their own grandchildren), they grow in friendship because they have to agree among themselves in what order which of them will sleep on the second tier. 90003 90002 Therefore, one of the main requirements is, of course, its sustainability. 90003 90002 It is very easy to make such a bunk bed with your own hands.90003 90012 So, the materials that will be required for making a bunk bed 90013 90014 For the frame (spruce material), the wood blanks are required in the following quantities and sizes: 90003 90016 90017 90018 90019 Number \ type 90020 90019 dimensions 90020 90023 90018 90019 4 bars 90020 90019 1480x50x50 mm 90020 90023 90018 90019 4 boards 90020 90019 2065×100 × 25 mm 90020 90023 90018 90019 2 boards 90020 90019 750x100x25 mm 90020 90023 90018 90019 2 bars 90020 90019 750x50x25 mm 90020 90023 90018 90019 8 boards 90020 90019 900x 100 × 25 mm 90020 90023 90018 90019 4 bars 90020 90019 900x50x25 mm 90020 90023 90018 90019 2 boards 90020 90019 900x75x25 mm 90020 90023 90018 90019 4 bars 90020 90019 900x25x25 mm 90020 90023 90018 90019 4 bars 90020 90019 1850x25x25 mm 90020 90023 90078 90079 90014 For stairs (also need spruce) 90003 90016 90017 90018 90019 2 bars 90020 90019 1250x50x25 mm 90020 90023 90018 90019 2 bars 90020 90019 1050x50x25 mm 90020 90023 90078 90079 90002 You will also need: 90003 90100 90101 Base for mattress (plywood): 2 sheet 1850x900x9 mm 90102 90101 Accessories: 3 steel pipes 025 × 560 mm with PVC coating 90102 90101 Fasteners: screws (3,5 × 40 mm), decorative washers-plugs, glue 90102 90107 90002 As you can see, the entire bed frame (racks, side elements, transverse fasteners) is made of the most simple materials.90003 90002 90003 90002 Figure 1. General drawing of 2 bunk beds. 90003 90002 To ensure that the boards and bars are not jammed, before making a bed, they should be kept for a week in a room where the temperature and humidity are approximately the same as those of a furnished room. 90003 90002 After cutting into size all the edges and ends of the workpieces are carefully treated with sandpaper. 90003 90002 Then the holes are drilled under the screws, followed by the countersinking of their edges.After assembling the frame, it is covered with acrylic lacquer. 90003 90002 First, on the screws and glue, the elements of the upper and lower frames are connected to each other, including the support strips under the mattress base. 90003 90002 All the screws on the front side are equipped with decorative pads, which at the same time will not let us get hurt (with children, after all, we have a case. 90003 90002 As the steps for the stairs, steel pipes with a diameter of 25 mm with PVC coating are suitable.90003 90126 90002 Also on the topic: Corner computer desk with your own hands 90003 90126 90002 After installation and installation of the ladder, the upper side boards are screwed. 90003 90002 In the grounds for mattresses made of plywood thickness of 9 mm, you need to drill the ventilation holes with a diameter of 50 mm. 90003 90002 To make the structure more stable, it can be additionally attached to the wall with metal corners or if you are afraid that the kids can be injured during the game, then using leather loops screwed to the wall with screws with smooth and rounded hats.90003 90002 90003 90002 Figure 2. Drawing — nodes of the construction of the bed (to the left the one in the 1 drawing is indicated by the letter A and the one on the right is the letter B). 90003 90002 In the figure, the numbers indicate: 90003 90002 1. Ventilation holes — 50 millimeters 90003 90002 2. Plywood 9 mm. 90003 90002 3. The distance between the boards is 25 mm. 90003 90002 4. Screws 3,5×40 mm are screwed in with displacement to each other 90003 90002 5. Decorative washers for screws.90003 90002 6. Holes 25 mm for stair steps. 90003 90002 A note for parents who will use these drawings to make a two-tiered bed themselves, on their own. 90003 90002 The child can be in the family alone and such an 2 tier bed is still asking. In this case, one of the tiers can sew eco-skin (natural is very expensive). 90003 90002 90159 What is eco-leather. 90160 90003 90002 Eco-leather is an artificial material with «breathing» properties. 90003 90002 It consists of a polymer — polyurethane, characterized by high wear resistance and frost resistance, so soft furniture with such a coating retains its impeccable appearance for a long time.90003 90002 The indicators of abrasion of modern brands of polyurethanes are tens times higher than any natural leather, which eventually stretches, on the cushions of seats there are «bubbles», and embossing is gradually smoothed. 90003 90002 Natural skin requires regular care, since fatty substances that give it elasticity, eventually dry up, which leads to cracking of the face layer, which can not be said about eko-skin. 90003 90002 The warranty period of its operation is 5 years. 90003 90002 Eco-leather has many advantages, namely: 90003 90174 90101 Hypoallergenic.This material does not emit substances that could harm the baby. 90102 90101 Does not burn. For a child is also important .. 90102 90101 Soft and elastic and pleasant to the touch. Due to its thermal conductivity, it is close to wood and natural leather, air-and vapor-permeable. 90102 90181 90002 In our case, it is rather rough so that the child does not slip to the floor from the second tier (of course, when you buy the material, check this property so that it is sufficient). 90003 90126 90185 DOUBLE-BED OWN BED — DESIGNS AND TIPS FROM READERS 90186 90126 90185 DOUBLE BED OWN HANDS — NOT WIDTH, AND HEIGHT 90186 90002 90003 90002 A second child appeared in the family.When he grew up and the cradle became small, he thought about a new berth. We have a small children’s room and the second bed just does not fit. I had to be smart and attach the second floor to the one that was already available. 90003 90002 I bought an MDF sheet from a furniture company and ordered a cut according to the size of a standard single mattress — four sidewalls and a rectangular base (bottom). 90003 90002 From multilayer plywood with a thickness of 15 mm (the same thickness at the sides of the bed), I sawed 4 racks and 2 jibs for rigidity with an electric jigsaw.90003 90002 From the cut out details I collected a box for confirmations. On the one hand, I installed it on a cabinet and screwed it with bolts. On the other hand, the box rests on racks screwed to the upper and lower sides with tie bolts and metal plates. Additionally connected the extreme racks with the bottom of the upper tier with jibs. I hit a ladder from the boards so that I could climb to the second floor. I made a fence out of bars and rope. The second tier can withstand a load of 260 kg, which is enough for a child.90003 90200 90002 Note 90003 90002 Since a bookcase is attached to the bed at the head of the bed, four racks were enough for me, if there is none, the number of supports should be at least six, three on each side), and preferably eight. 90003 90205 90002 © Author: Maxim Berezin, Ekaterinburg. Author photo 90003 90126 90185 ANGULAR DOUBLE-BED BED OWN HANDS 90186 90002 90003 90002 I bring to your attention 90159 option of a corner bunk bed 90160. Assembled it from wooden poles, timber and boards.The design does not take up much space and at the same time capacious, besides, children really like it. Treated with varnish does not emit tar. 90003 90002 From spruce poles d 15 cm sawed 6 racks 220 cm long (distance from floor to ceiling) and cleaned of bark. 90003 90002 Racks installed vertically: four against the walls and two — opposite the corner at the right distance. I attached them to the floor and ceiling with metal corners on self-tapping screws (photo 1). Between themselves, from above and from below, I connected it with crossbars from a board with a section of 150 × 30 mm, which I also fixed on self-tapping screws (photo 2).90003 90002 To the crossbars I similarly screwed it on the corners 90003 90002 sides of the bar with a section of 70×50 mm, the same fixed on the wall between the racks. I installed 25 mm thick boards on top and bottom of them and sewed them with plywood (photo 3). 90003 90002 In the corner between the racks I made a shelf from the scraps of boards (photo 4). On the second tier between the racks fixed carved railing. Installed a ladder of spruce cuttings. 90003 90002 © Posted by Vladimir Kukhto 90003 90126 90185 If you do not do it yourself — tips on choosing a bed 90186 90002 It often happens that time does not wait, and then instead of doing it it is necessary to urgently buy a bed for a child.Then in this case we will give advice on its choice which, again, are based on the experience of independent production, roughly speakingDo not buy what you yourself would do for your child with your own hands did not. 90003 90002 Beds for children come in two types: for newborns and preschoolers. There is also a category of furniture for teens, but most often these are standard beds, made in the youth style. When choosing a bed, it is better to give preference to natural materials (beech, pine and alder bases).If the bed is made of chipboard, ask the seller for a hygienic certificate for furniture, indicating its safety. Choosing a crib for a baby, other than natural materials, you need to pay attention to its design. It is better that it is complemented by the lateral side walls and a high back. If you need to pick up a sleeping place for an energetic preschooler and at the same time save space in the room, a bunk bed that combines the sleeping place and the playing area will suit. Pay special attention to the selection of the mattress.Most often it is sold separately from the bed, but it is thanks to this that you can choose a model for the individual needs of the child-the required stiffness and material. 90003 90002 Important to remember: 90003 90002 The basic safety requirements for two-tiered structures are the high rims, which protect the sleeper and reliable handrails for the staircase. When buying such furniture, it is better to check the strength of all fasteners at once, and also pay attention to the design of furniture-it should not have sharp corners and untreated surfaces.90003 90002 Successful work for you — let your kiddies grow strong and healthy. 90003 90012 90159 DOUBLE BED OWN HANDS — VIDEO 90160 90013 90246 90247 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS. 90248 90249 90185 Below other entries on the topic «How to make your own hands — a householder!» 90186 90101 A carved bed with my own hands — photo How to make your own wooden … 90102 90101 Folding bed with own hands (photo) How to make a folding bed your… 90102 90101 Bed with sleeping place at the top and closet-pantry downstairs Do-it-yourself pantry bed To save space … 90102 90101 Children’s double bed with their own hands — drawings Drawings of a children’s bunk bed for … 90102 90101 Beds with scarfs with their own hands How to make a baby bed from … 90102 90101 DIY car bed for children (+ DRAWINGS) BED-CAR FERRARI OWN HANDS For the manufacture of … 90102 90101 Bed with canopy (canopy) with own hands — drawings and photos How to make a bed with a canopy… 90126 90266 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90186 90266 Let’s be friends! 90186 90102.90000 Bed with canopy (canopy) with own hands — blueprints and photos | With Your Hands 90001 90002 The canopy over the bed (otherwise known as the canopy) is not only a fad and craving for the gentry — but also a great way to protect your sleep from mosquitoes, drafts and sometimes from bright sunlight (for those who do not like them ). 90003 90002 The process of making your own canopy bed (canopy) is not so much complicated as time consuming. 90003 90002 Easier to work themselves can be through the use of finished racks section 58 × 58 mm, on all four edges of which are profiled with longitudinal U-shaped grooves (read more Connection spike-groove — how to do it correctly).90003 90002 The frames of the basement panels of the bed, two of which are 2000 mm in length, and two 1 800 mm, are assembled from planed boards with a cross section of 150 × 19 mm. 90003 90002 The horizontal parts of the frames are connected to the vertical ones on the dowels with glue. 90003 90002 From the back side to the frame of our future bed with a canopy is fastened lattice with diamond-shaped cells. 90003 90002 The grate can be made by hand from wooden slats or cut out of ready-made lattice elements.90003 90002 From the back side to both long basement panels fixing on a glue and screws bruski section 30 × 30 mm, on which the board basis under mattresses will be based. 90003 90002 The length of the racks depends on the height of the ceiling in the bedroom. 90003 90002 They cut into size and from below attach support plates with dimensions 80 × 80 mm. 90003 90002 To the upper ends of the racks fixing on the dowels with glue decorative tips (as for the curtain rod), laying under them wooden pads with dimensions 70 × 70 mm.90003 90002 The baldachin is made in such a way that it consists of a kind of roof (made of a furniture board with dimensions 2000x1800x16 mm, at the corners of which there are notches under the racks) and curtains. 90003 90002 Mount the roof and curtains on the four boards of the top harness section 100 × 19 mm, also inserted into the grooves of the racks. 90003 90002 On the back side, support bars are attached to the boards. 90003 90002 Before you begin to assemble the elements of the bed, their details are thoroughly grinded and at least two layers are varnished.90003 90002 The sequence of self-assembly of a bed with a canopy is as follows. 90003 90002 First, in the slots of the pillars, insert and fasten the long socle panels with screws, placing them in 50 mm from the bottom end of the racks. 90003 90002 Then a panel of dimensions 2000x400x19 mm, cut from the chipboard, connects two opposite short socle panels (length of 1800 mm). 90003 90002 After that, fasten the short socle panels in the grooves of the racks. 90003 90040 90002 Reference by topic: Bunk bed with own hands — photos and drawings 90003 90040 90002 Flush with the top edge of the connecting panel from the chipboard on both sides screw the support bars section 60 × 30 mm.90003 90002 Now you can attach to the racks of the board of the upper strapping, having previously screwed the support strips to them. 90003 90002 In the middle of the shield for 90049 roof canopies 90050 from above mount a through bar, giving to a board additional rigidity. 90003 90002 It is placed on the supporting bars of the planks. 90003 90002 In conclusion, from below, curtain rods are fastened to the boards, on which curtains are hung by means of rings with clothespins. 90003 90002 90003 90058 90049 Fig.1. Canopy bed — frame assembly scheme 90050 90003 90058 90049 90050 90003 90058 90049 Fig. 2. The construction of the basement panel. 90050 90003 90058 90049 Fig. 3. Canopy design — canopy above the bed. 90050 90003 90074 90075 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS. 90076 90077 90078 Below other entries on the topic «How to make your own hands — a householder!» 90079 90080 A carved bed with my own hands — photo How to make your own wooden… 90081 90080 Folding bed with own hands (photo) How to make a folding bed your … 90081 90080 Children’s double bed with their own hands — drawings Drawings of a children’s bunk bed for … 90081 90080 Bed with sleeping place at the top and closet-pantry downstairs Do-it-yourself pantry bed To save space … 90081 90080 Beds with scarfs with their own hands How to make a baby bed from … 90081 90080 DIY car bed for children (+ DRAWINGS) BED-CAR FERRARI OWN HANDS For the manufacture of… 90081 90080 Podium with a pull-out bed with your own hands — drawing and manufacturing How to make a podium with a bed … 90040 90094 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90079 90094 Let’s be friends! 90079 90081.90000 Bed with a ladder with your own hands — blueprints and photos | With Your Hands 90001 90002 This bed is for the children’s room. The bed is made of beech shields. 90003 90002 The design of this bed with a staircase is quite simple. 90003 90002 A rectangular frame with two handrails rests on the 4 rack of the L-shaped section. 90003 90002 Side to the bed is fixed a ladder made under a slope. 90003 90002 If desired, a table can be made between the front posts — it will add extra rigidity to the beds.90003 90002 To the bed frame (longitudinal elements) fixed bars for the base on which the mattress will then be laid. On the sides in advance, the fences-restraints have been carefully thought out and implemented (this is especially important if the child is small) 90003 90002 The table is the simplest — a table top, two legs and a table that is screwed to the pillars of the bed. 90003 90002 All the details except the table top made of laminated chipboard are cut from glued beech blanks and covered with a transparent matte varnish.90003 90002 90003 90020 90021 Bunk bed with a ladder on the second level and a table with own hands — drawings 90022 90003 90020 90025 CONSTRUCTION AND MAIN DIMENSIONS OF BED This bed corresponds to the size of the mattress 120 × 190 cm. 90026 90003 90028 Let’s start making a bed with a ladder 90029 90002 To cut the details from the blanks, you need a circular saw, and then you can connect them later on dowels or dowels. 90003 90002 The desired shape of the dowel pins is selected using a special milling machine.The electric hook allows you to quickly remove the chamfer from the sharp edges of the parts. This operation can also be performed by milling. Dull sharp edges should be used to avoid injury. 90003 90002 In this case, the assembly was carried out using the DOMINO Festool system (milling machine and plug-in spikes). Since the tool is expensive, it is mainly intended for joiner professionals. 90003 90002 You can also choose nests for plug-in spikes with a conventional milling machine, however, it is much more difficult to set up, and working with it requires more attention.90003 90002 1. Before assembling the racks of the L-shaped section, the grooves are milled for details under the inserted spikes of the DOMINO system. In a wide part grooves are selected from the side of the plate, and in the narrow part from the edge. 90003 90040 90002 See also: Baby cot with own hands (drawings) 90003 90040 90002 2. The walls of the grooves and the mating surfaces of the parts are smeared with PVA glue, in the prepared grooves of the wide part, inserting studs are inserted and a narrow piece is placed on them.To obtain a right angle between the parts, in three places, squeeze the square templates cut from the MDF plate into their clamps. After that, the parts are additionally pulled together by clamps. 90003 90002 3 Alternately, join the clamps using ready-made stands with the elements of the bed frame and drill pre-through fixing holes 02 mm. The drill is installed in the tool with the guides, so that the hole is perpendicular to the base surfaces. 90003 90002 4. On the holes 2 mm on the front side of the pillars and on the back side of the frame elements of the bed make a blind selection with a Forstner drill 25 mm.The central holes are then reamed to 08 mm. 90003 90002 5. No matter how carefully the marking was done, small deviations in the position of the fixing holes are inevitable. Therefore, in order not to confuse the details when assembling the bed, they are labeled. 90003 90002 90003 90002 6. The support bars under the base of the mattress in this case are glued from the slats. So that when contracting 90003 90002 clamps during gluing are not displaced relative to each other, pre-drive in them a few nails.90003 90002 7. The support bars with self-tapping screws are flush with the lower edges of the longitudinal elements of the bed frame, fixing them before mounting the clamps. 90003 90002 8. Each element of the enclosure consists of two holders and a handrail. Fixing screws are screwed into the holders adjacent to the rear sides of the longitudinal element of the frame and the handrail, so their heads are not visible from the outside. 90003 90002 9. The upper and lower ends of the bowstring are cut to the bevel in accordance with the desired angle of inclination of the ladder (at the top about 20 °, and below — at 70 °).In this case, the upper end of the bowstring is cut at 90 ° to the chamfered edge. 90003 90002 10. Lateral inserts (between the steps) of length 200 mm with beveled ends to one side, as well as at the bottom of the ladder string, are cut from a workpiece of thickness 18 mm in the stool. 90003 90002 90003 90002 11. After gluing the first insert at the bottom of the string, select the groove under the insertion stud, on which the string will then be connected to the step. 90003 90002 12. Installing an auxiliary bar the thickness equal to the thickness of the step (27 mm), glue to the string the next insert and so on.90003 90002 13. When all the inserts are glued, their edges are aligned by a fitting cutter along the edges of the bowstring 90003 90040 90002 Reference by topic: How to make a bunk bed for a nursery 90003 90040 90002 14. The stems slightly protrude in front and behind behind the edges of the string. The processing of steps is only to remove the chamfers and to select the grooves on the ends under the insert studs. 90003 90002 15. The staircase is finally assembled. Before tightening the clamps and immediately after it carefully check the rectangular structure.The stairs are screwed to the longitudinal element of the bed frame, while the screws are screwed from the back side of the bed. 90003 90002 16. The table legs should be glued from the slats and processed after gluing. 90003 90002 90003 90002 17. The back jumper of the substructure protrudes slightly on the sides so that it can be screwed to the pillars of the bed. When assembling the podstolya check its rectangularity. 90003 90002 18. At a small distance from the corners of the substructure (so that the legs pass) at the level of the upper edges, fix the mounting bars to which the table top is attached.90003 90002 19 The edges of the table top (laminated chipboard) are pasted with edgeband tape using an iron. Carefully cut the edges of the tape and treat them with a fine sandpaper. 90003 90002 20. Mount the legs in two corners) under the table and fasten the table top so that it protrudes under the table on three sides — front and sides .. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90021 CONNECTIONS AT THE HOSES — «BISQUITAX» 90022 90003 90002 Instead of plug-in spikes, when connecting parts, you can use «biscuit» keys.To select grooves for them, you need a keyway milling machine, for example 3901 Makita. 90003 90002 90021 CONNECTIONS ON INSERT SHIPS 90022 90003 90002 Milling machines of some models F are designed for the selection of grooves for insert studs, which are available in several sizes. Depending on which plug-in spike is used, set the milling depth, which can be changed from 12 to 28mm. 90003 90108 90109 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.90110 90111 90112 Below other entries on the topic «How to make your own hands — a householder!» 90113 90114 A carved bed with my own hands — photo How to make your own wooden … 90115 90114 Folding bed with own hands (photo) How to make a folding bed your … 90115 90114 Children’s double bed with their own hands — drawings Drawings of a children’s bunk bed for … 90115 90114 DIY car bed for children (+ DRAWINGS) BED-CAR FERRARI OWN HANDS For the manufacture of… 90115 90114 Bed with sleeping place at the top and closet-pantry downstairs Do-it-yourself pantry bed To save space … 90115 90114 Beds with scarfs with their own hands How to make a baby bed from … 90115 90114 Folding bed built in the closet with your own hands How to make a folding bed (photo … 90040 90128 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90113 90128 Let’s be friends! 90113 90115.