Как сделать отмостку если дом стоит на уклоне: Отмостка дома на склоне: нормативный уклон отмостки,особенности

Как отремонтировать отмостку вокруг дома самостоятельноКак самостоятельно отремонтировать отмостку вокруг дома

Со временем, разрушение отмостки, появление разного-рода трещин и различной растительности в них, становиться неизбежным. Особенно, если отводное полотно вокруг дома, было уложено с большими нарушениями, строительных норм и правил. Как только проявляются подобные симптомы, то срочно требуется ремонт отмостки. Как отремонтировать отмостку вокруг дома, своими руками или же с привлечением профессиональных строителей, решать вам. Но если вы серьезно ограничены в средствах, то первый способ ремонта отмостки, более реальный и менее затратный.

Как самостоятельно отремонтировать отмостку

Важно знать и помнить, что отводному полотну вокруг здания, отведена одна из наиболее важных функций – гидро- и теплозащита фундамента. То-беж, должная защита основания капитальной постройки, от несанкционированного проникновения внешней влаги – осадков. А так-же, полное ограждение и исключение, быстрого разрушения основы строения, от сильных морозов.

Чтобы правильно оценить степень разрушения конструкции и принять верное, взвешенное и оптимальное решение, а далее, провести качественно ремонт отмостки своими руками, необходимо хорошо знать конструкцию и устройство отводного полотна, капитального строения.

Конструкция отмостки

Конструкция традиционной, обычной отмостки, как правило, состоит из двух основных слоев:

1. Декоративное покрытие;
2. Подстилающий слой.

Подстилающий слой

Служит, подстилающий слой, для создания уплотненной и ровной основы, которая требуется, для дальнейшей укладки, отводного покрытия. Как правило, в качестве подстилающего слоя, применяют песок, щебень или глину.

Подстилающий слой конструкции

Выбор стройматериала, в основном, зависит от верхнего покрытия отмостки здания.

Декоративное покрытие

Покрытие отводной полосы должно быть, в первую очередь, водонепроницаемым и, естественно, трудно поддаваться размыву, от внешних вод – природных осадок.

В старину, декоративное покрытие отмостки, делали из глины. Процесс не сложный и доступный каждому. По периметру здания, как правило, выкапывали неглубокую траншею и заполняли глиной. Далее, ее трамбовали и увлажняли, с уклоном от дома, создавая тем самым, водонепроницаемый слой, по поверхности которого, не впитываясь в грунт, быстро стекала дождевая и талая вода.

Декоративное покрытие отмостки

Сегодня глину, при обустройстве отмостки, редко используют. Обычно, для этих целей, применяют бетон. Этот строительный материал, позволяет получить, полностью монолитную поверхность и главное, без щелей. Когда нет полной уверенности, в 100% гидроизоляции фундамента – это особенно важно. Если-же основание постройки, правильно и качественно заизолировано, то для устройства отводного полотна, можно использовать декоративные стройматериалы. Например, тротуарную плитку (брусчатку). А так-же, щебень и бетонные плиты.

Устройство отводного полотна вокруг здания

Отводное полотно (отмостка) – плотное покрытие, шириной от 0.6 до 1.5 м., примыкающее к фундаменту или цоколю здания, с определенным уклоном от него. Устройство, согласно строительным нормам, должно иметь уклон отмостки, не менее 1 % (1 см на 1 м) и не более 10 % (10 см на 1м). Основное предназначение, данного строительного сооружения – защита фундамента от влаги и промерзания.

Устройство отмостки

Стройматериалы для обустройства отводной конструкции

Наиболее популярные стройматериалы, которые часто используют, для обустройства защитной, отводной конструкции самостоятельно, следующие:

• Бетон;
• цемент;
• брусчатка;
• искусственный камень;
• натуральный камень;
• асфальт;
• плитка.

Уровень отмостки

Высота цоколя, как правило, зависит от вида стройматериала, из которого выполнена отмостка. Если используется гравий или щебень, достаточно поднять цоколь на высоту 30 см. Если-же, планируется обустроить твердую и плоскую поверхность (к примеру, бетон или тротуарную плитку), высоту цоколя рекомендуется увеличить до 50 сантиметров.

Ширина отмостки

Как правило, ширина отмостки, определяется, в зависимости от типа грунта и выноса карнизных свесов, крыши здания. На обычных грунтах, ширину утверждают на 20 см больше вылета карниза, но не менее 60 см. Словом, делают так, чтобы стекающая с кровли жидкость, не смогла размыть почву и не собиралась под строением. А на просадочных грунтах, на 20-30 см за границей откосов траншей или котлованов, отрываемых под основанием, но не менее 90 сантиметров.

Уклон отмостки

Для булыжных и щебеночных отводных полос, поперечный уклон отмостки от оси дома, берется в пределах 5-10% (5-10 см на 1 м ширины). А для бетонных или асфальтовых – 3-5%. При этом, чем круче уклон, тем лучше происходит отвод жидкости. Правда, стоит отметить, такую конструкцию отмостки, использовать в качестве пешеходной дорожки, вокруг капитального строения, не очень удобно.

Зазор между стеной и отмосткой

Строя отводную полосу, следует предусмотреть зазор, между отмосткой и стеной. Такой подход, поможет избежать повреждений и разрушений, гидроизоляции стен фундамента. В противном случае, выполненная из брусчатки или плит отводная конструкция, под действием сильных морозов, будет оказывать излишнее давление на стену. Что, в конечном результате, повлечет оседание и повреждение изоляции, на внешней поверхности фундаментной стены. Не редко, такой процесс, может серьезно повредить облицовочный материал здания. Например, на цоколе, осыпаться плитка.

Зазор между стеной и отмосткой

Чтобы предотвратить, подобное негативное явление, рекомендуется оставить компенсационный шов, толщиной 1-2 см. А чтобы в него не попадал мусор и вода, заполнить шов, экструдированным пенополистиролом, герметиком или просто, песком.

Дренаж вокруг отмостки

Гарантировать качественный, полный отвод жидкости, от основания здания и его «доскональную сухость», может только отмостка в три и более, метров ширины. Разумеется, такую ширину, не всегда возможно сделать. Поэтому, в замен, стоит обустроить дополнительную защиту. Оптимальный, наиболее эффективный вариант – устройство ливневки и дренажа.

Для более жестких, отмостки из бетона и плит, поверхностный линейный дренаж, будет в самый раз. Конструкция проста – водоотводящий желоб или канавка, по внешней линии отмостки из камня, бетона, пластиковой или асбоцементной трубы, обустроенных по длине надвое. Не стоит, так-же, забывать про их, должный уклон.

Не менее практичные и готовые дренажные элементы, которые комплектуются, верхними защитными решетками. Как правило, это пластик или полимербетон. Заводские лотки для дренажа, с отводной трубой и верхней решеткой, приспособлены для установки, в подготовленную плоскость отмостки фундамента дома.

Отремонтировать отмостку – Почему возникают трещины

Определить сразу, почему появляются, возникают разного-рода трещины в отмостке, для конкретной ситуации, довольно сложно. Вернее сказать, причин возникновения деформационных швов, много. Но все-же, как показывает практика, основные три:

Трещины в отмостке

1. Временной фактор. За время эксплуатации, отмостка многократно подвергается температурным изменениям. То-беж, расширению материала, в жару и сжатию, зимой. В результате этих явлений, в отводной полосе, появляются трещины. Если их сразу не устранить, то со временем, как правило, они увеличиваются и разрушают отмостку, окончательно.
2. Неравномерная осадка здания. Образование трещин в отмостке, происходит из-за нарушения герметичности стыков, между полотном и цоколем. Покрытие отходит от дома, а в образовавшуюся щель, начинает проникать вода. Подобный случай, предполагает немедленное устранение деформации. В противном случае, разрушения отводного полотна, не избежать.
3. Просадка отмостки. Довольно распространенная, обыденная причина, которая возникает в результате оседания грунта. Помимо природных катаклизм, не редко, причиной является, грубое нарушение технологии (строительных норм и правил) укладки покрытия.

Отремонтировать отмостку – Инвентарь для ремонта

Для того, чтобы правильно произвести ремонт покрытия, качественно отремонтировать отмостку вокруг дома своими руками, понадобится следующий, строительный инвентарь:

• Лопата;
• ведро;
• тачка, для перевозки строительного материала;
• перфоратор;
• стройматериалы для тепло- и влагоизоляции;
• строительный уровень;
• песок;
• щебень;
• арматура.

Отремонтировать отмостку – Как поэтапно произвести ремонт

Первый шаг: Подготовка под заливку цементного раствора.

Перед началом проведения основных строительных работ, следует тщательно очистить поверхность старого отводного покрытия, от пыли и грязи. Должным образом, расширить трещины и удалить полностью, разрушенные участки покрова. Для улучшения сцепления, хорошо загрунтовать края трещин. Чтобы качественно заделать появившиеся щели, для экономии цементного раствора, можно использовать куски, старого разрушенного полотна – разложить, перед заливкой бетона, в ямы.

Подготовка под заливку раствора

Второй шаг: Приготовление цементного раствора.

Приготовление цементного раствора (бетона): песок – 2,6 части, цемент М500 или М400 – 1 часть, щебень – 4,5 части, вода – 125 л на 1 м. куб. готового раствора, а так-же, иные добавки. Время работы с готовой смесью, 1.5-2 часа.

Приготовление раствора для ремонта отмостки

Третий шаг: Укладка бетона.

Начинать заливку бетона своими руками, лучше с самой верхней точки. При этом, периодически, отслеживая соблюдение запланированного уклона. Качественный ремонт крупных участков, поврежденного полотна, следует производить, с применением армированной сетки. После заливки, бетонный раствор, уплотняют и выравнивают.

Укладка бетона

После завершения ремонтных действий, поверхность накрывают влажной тканью и оставляют высыхать. Для того, чтобы бетон не высох слишком быстро и не растрескался, требуется, время от времени, окроплять его водой.

Как быстро устранить трещины в отмостке вокруг дома

Устранение глубоких трещин в бетоне

1. Если трещины, в отводном полотне, не глубокие и небольшого размера, то после тщательной очистки, можно заполнить их жидким раствором цемента, в соотношение 1 к 1 или 1 к 2, с добавлением разбавленного клея ПВА. Далее, требуется произвести затирку.
2. Когда размер щелей средний, то устранение дефектов, производится по-другому. Сперва поверхность очищается и, при помощи перфоратора, щели расширяют. Затем, полученные ямки, обрабатывают грунтовкой и дают полностью просохнуть. После, заполняют бетоном.
3. При отсоединение отводного покрытия от цоколя, в образовавшиеся щели, следует залить экструдированный пенополистирол и заделать полиуретановым герметиком. Далее, сверху, хорошо затереть цементным раствором. Стоит отметить, что подобный ремонт отмостки, более затратный.
4. Если-же, появление трещин в отмостке, вызвано просадкой старой конструкции, то следует, на этом участке, его полностью разрушить. После, подсыпать и утрамбовать грунт. Затем, полностью восстановить все слои отводного покрытия, с последующей заливкой бетонным раствором.
5. В случае, когда разрушения покрытия слишком внушительные, ремонт отмостки, как правило, бесполезен. Единственно правильное решение – произвести, поверх старого покрытия, укладку нового отводного полотна. Если-же, сделать отмостку поверх старой невозможно, следует полностью ее демонтировать и произвести укладку с самого начала, обязательно соблюдая технологию строительства. При этом, незабываем, каждые полтора-два метра, обустраивать деформационные швы.

Ремонт легких повреждений в бетоне

Когда считается нарушение технологии укладки

1. Отсутствие гидроизоляционного слоя. Очень важный элемент отводной конструкции. Отделяет, сконструированные слои от грунта и предотвращает, быстрое проникновение влаги извне.
2. Засыпка неравномерно и плохо утрамбована. Как правило, подобный казус, влечет за собой, недостаточную толщину верхнего слоя.
3. Строительство полотна, при неблагоприятных климатических условиях. Сооружение конструкции, категорически запрещено производить, в преддверие сильных моров, жары и дождя. Все эти, природные явления, как правило, крайне негативно отражаются на качестве покрытия. Сильно нарушат процесс схватки цементного раствора.
4. Отсутствие температурных швов. В течение года, происходят резкие изменения температуры, которое приводит к расширению, сжатию и морозному пучению грунта. Такие явления, значительно увеличивают вероятность, быстрого разрушения бетонной конструкции. Чтобы подобное не произошло, следует устанавливать температурные швы. Они частично помогут сгладить все казусы природы. Чтобы как-то распределить и немного уменьшить, появляющиеся колебания, рекомендуется располагать температурные швы, каждые 1,5-2 м.

Важно знать и понимать, что от качества отводной конструкции, зависит должная прочность и долговечность, любого фундамента. А значит, полное исключение, незапланированных как трудозатрат, так и денег, которые, как правило, требуются на ремонт отмостки. Словом, легче один раз качественно все сделать, в строгом соответствие, с установленными строительными нормами и правилами, чем постоянно бороться, с последствиями плохой укладки покрытия.

90000 How to make a blind area around the house concrete? Which grade of concrete is needed for paving? The thickness and slope of pavement 90001 90002 To protect the house Foundation from groundwater and external factors, it is necessary to arrange the concrete pavement. She is around the house. This approach provides complete protection from moisture, what is not able to cope any other material. This design protects not only the Foundation, but the basement of the building. In addition to the barrier, the pavement performs another important function-starts a movement on the surface.In addition, by using this site, you can give the house a finished appearance. 90003 90002 90005 90003 90007 Requirements for the deck 90008 90002 Before you make a blind area around the house is made of concrete, you should familiarize yourself with the sanitary norms and rules 2.02.01-83. 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This is true for structures with dimensions of 15 x 15 x 15 cm 90003 90002 You might be interested in also the question about what grade of concrete necessary for paving. Usually this takes the cement M200, which corresponds to the class Q15. Parameters of concrete depend on its brand. They are determined by the components.For the device bottom layer will need sand, which will form the basis of the pillows. It can be career or river. The main condition that the material does not contain major impurities, which could damage the geotextile. 90003 90002 For blind area is better to use the gravel fraction in the range of 10 to 20 mm. It can be gravel. For hidrotambo will need a geotextile or clay. This layer in the cushion absent, because the concrete does an excellent job of diverting water. For zheleznenija need to use cement.90003 90002 90045 90003 90007 Solution 90008 90002 The Arrangement of blind area around the house made from concrete can be carried out using the prepared solution, otherwise it will have to cook by yourself. Grade of concrete will be determined by the brand of cement and its specific gravity. To blind area is better to use cement M400. Cement must be fresh, so buy it in advance is not necessary, because after a month of storage material will lose 5% of their properties. If you use fresh cement high marks, it will save on water and to obtain good concrete.90003 90002 To prepare the solution you need to prepare sifted, pre-washed and freed from impurities sand. To the volume of water remained unchanged, material must be dried. As for the gravel, the crushed rock rather than gravel. If there is a need to give concretequality frost resistance, use of additional substances it can be a liquid glass. Among the tools are: 90003 90053 90054 Capacity for kneading or a mixer; 90055 90054 Bucket; 90055 90054 The shovel; 90055 90054 Measuring capacity for water; 90055 90054 Vibroplasty or ramming a piece of wood.90055 90064 90002 90066 90003 90007 Preparation of solutions 90008 90002 The Technology of production of blind area around the house concrete involves preparation of a mixture of their own. To prepare the composition of the separate portions is recommended, that is true, if laying you plan to do yourself. The order of ingredients matters when cooking. 90003 90002 For mixing you need to fill the cement and water. To these are added other components: first poured a small portion of the sand, and then rubble or gravel.Between flow components is recommended to maintain the interval of 5 minutes, this will improve mixing. 90003 90002 90075 90003 90007 Substrate Preparation, markup, and device hikosaka 90008 90002 Before you make a blind area around the house is made of concrete, you must prepare the ground. To do this, remove the top layer of soil, remove stones and roots. Below the substrate should eliminate the activity by the use of herbicides. Considering that moment that the blind area exceeds the edge of the roof slope at 200 mm, you should use a plumb line to mark the borders of the design.For layout you need to pull on pocketed in the corners of the pegs to the rope. In order to avoid it sagging, you need to install intermediate stakes, the distance between them is 6 m. 90003 90002 To determine the slope of the pavement, you need to install additional beacons on the base (to pull rope). Fastening is carried out through each meter. You can then go to the device hikosaka. For this fit a 150-mm layer of fat clay, which can be replaced with geotextile. 90003 90002 The Film should not tear, on the bottom of the trench is filled with 100 mm layer of sand.On top of the film is filled with another layer of sand. The sand must be smooth, moisturize and seal. If you decide to work with clay hidrotambo, the sand layer should be one. When laying the film, you need to avoid tension, it needs to move freely along with the ground. 90003 90002 If you have wondered about how to make a blind area around the house, you should remember that near hikosaka better to put good drainage. To this excavated trench depth and a width of 100 mm and 200 mm, respectively.On the bottom is filled with rubble, then fit the pipe you want to wrap the geotextile. This will increase the speed of water drainage. Many neglect this step, but in practice, this translates into the fact that the water goes under the Foundation, and in freezing increases the pressure on him. 90003 90002 90088 90003 90007 Filling of rubble and sand. The insulation of the blind area and reinforcement 90008 90002 If you, like many pet masters, the question arose about how to make a blind area around the house, then you should know that the next stage is filled with rubble.The thickness of this layer should vary from 50 to 100 mm of Gravel must be spread out and compacted. You can use a special lattice, which is used in landscape design. 90003 90002 In the sand it is necessary to make a hole for the pipe and storm drain inlets, then you can proceed to the insulation of the blind area. On compacted sand, which is filled to the bottom of the trench should be installed polystyrene or polystyrene foam. To blind area suitable rigid insulation, but he’s afraid of point loads, so you need to place it on a sand cushion.90003 90002 To Eliminate the cold bridges is possible by the method of laying the insulation in 2 layers. Insulated crawl space have to be organized. To do this, use reinforcement mesh with square cells of side equal to 50 or 100 mm. Reinforcing the frame is associated. The mesh netting for this purpose should not be used as it is too flexible. If you do not need insulated blind area, the reinforcing mesh can be located on the rubble. This will contribute to a better distribution of the concrete mix.90003 90002 90099 90003 90007 Installation of formwork and pouring 90008 90002 Formwork may consist of plywood or boards. It increases the stakes, which are installed outside. When mounting we should not forget that the formwork is removable. For the device of expansion joints it is necessary to install wood strips on the edge that are processed antiseptic. The distance between the seams should be 2 m. 90003 90002 The Seams should be placed diagonally in the place where the formwork turns at the corners.Expansion joint has one important purpose, which is expressed in compensation of thermal expansion of the material during operation. Fill blind area should be carried out with removal of air pockets. If the mixture is evenly filled the entire space, you will be able to get a solid construction. 90003 90002 When casting it is important to exclude depression and tubercles, their presence will contribute to stagnation of water. If the entire deck at one time to do not, it is possible to fill only part of it, and then resume work.Fill blind area should be accompanied bystykovanija. For this concrete punctured, which will facilitate filling the entire space. 90003 90007 Varieties of paving without concrete 90008 90002 In the construction of the blind area is divided into three types: 90003 90053 90054 Solid; 90055 90054 Classic; 90055 90054 The asphalt or stones. 90055 90064 90002 Classic blind area usually has a width in the range of 80 cm and is constructed on the perimeter of the house. As the basis of this design may be a clay.At the perimeter of the house to do this, dig a trench, where is filled with wet clay and compacted tightly. After drying, you can get a dense mass, which will provide the proper level of protect the Foundation from moisture. 90003 90002 On Top of the clay layer can be filled rubble middle fraction, and it is well sealed. Considering the types of blind area around the house without the concrete, you have to become more familiar with stone construction that is arranged with the help of stones and boulders.The trench in this case has a depth within 30 cm of gravel is laid, it is necessary to condense, and then fill the clay, which also must be compacted. Below the upper layer to provide protection from moisture necessary to lay the insulation materials in the form of roofing material. You can then begin the construction of a decorative layer with stones. 90003 90007 Alternative types of pavement: the design of the tiles 90008 90002 If you want to make a deck, then run it from the tiles. It is important to pay attention to the limb waterproofing rubble.Its purpose is to not let the first layer of sand blurred. The total capacity of the cushion should be 30 cm, However, this parameter is relevant only for the blind area, which will lie in the humus. 90003 90002 If the layer is thinner, then drained the layers should not delve into the dense soil. The clay layer should be a limit of 15 to 20 cm Thick layers of gravel equal to three values ​​the first layer of sand. As for gradients, they should decrease from bottom to top. Clay training will have a slope ranging from 8 to 12 cm for each meter.The bottom layer of gravel is sloped up to 7 cm for each meter. The top layer of gravel will have a slope of up to 4 cm per meter. The pillow top tile is horizontal. 90003 90007 The Cost of the work 90008 90002 If you have a question about how to make a blind area around the house is of concrete, and you assess their capabilities, decided that it is better to entrust this business to professionals, you should ask the cost of the work. Construction cost per square meter will amount to RUB 2 170 There is a 10 cm layer of concrete, the same thickness of the sand training and reinforcing mesh.Admittedly, the price per square meter blind area around the house may seem quite impressive, especially true if the building has a large area. So maybe to start is to study the technology. 90003 90007 In conclusion 90008 90002 Without blind area the Foundation and basement of the building can quickly come into disrepair. After all the work you can do zhelezneniem design. These manipulations are carried out on casted concrete that is coated in a layer of cement and subsequently erased. If you still think over the issue about how to make a blind area around the house out of concrete, you should know that there is also a wet method zheleznenija, which is carried out 14 days after completion of the pouring, when the solution dries.To do this, the surface design is necessary to go a cement-sand mortar. 90003.90000 What You Need to Know About Building on a Slope 90001 90002 90003 90004 This Montana cabin takes advantage of its sloped lot with a walk-out basement on the backside. See more of this home here. Photo: Joseph Hilliard 90005 90006 90007 90008 Question: My wife and I own property with a gentle slope. I’ve heard it’ll cost a fortune to build up the ground for a slab foundation. Would I save more by building a house with a basement? 90009 90010 Answer: 90011 90006 Slabs and slopes often do not play well together.It is not just the cost; there are other problems as well. Bringing a slope up to level for a slab usually requires building a stem wall or retaining wall on the lower edge of the foundation and adding fill dirt to provide a level base. But be careful: Placing a slab on fill opens the door for cracks and settling. Make sure your builder or excavation team takes great care to compact the fill. 90007 90006 Another issue is drainage. Building codes require that non-masonry building materials be at least 8 inches above the soil surface.I recommend doubling this height to protect log walls from damaging rain and drifting snow. This means adding even more fill. If you’re trying to avoid a basement, consider using a crawlspace. This will require a footing and short wall. If you’re building where winters can be severe, normal footings must be several feet deep. 90007 90006 Also, ask your building about frost-protected shallow footing (FPSF) to reduce the amount of digging and concrete. This building technology has been used in Scandinavia for half a century and provides a more energy-efficient foundation system for less money.As an added bonus, your crawlspace will offer some storage and allow you to run electrical wiring and plumbing-a much easier route than running these through a slab. 90007 90006 90007 90008 90009 90022 90003 90004 Photo: Elk Ridge Builders 90005 90006 90007 90008 Question: What are some pros and cons of a sloped lot? 90009 90010 Pros 90011 90006 Building on a slope offers the possibility of a walkout or lookout lower level. This means daylight instead of the dark mustiness of a subterranean basement.Being able to finish all or part of the lower level allows you to build more home for less money. 90007 90006 Sloping lots offer a lot of aesthetic advantages, too. In a forest, a home built on a slope may mean that windows on one side will take in views of a forest canopy and provide a sense of living in a tree house. In more open country, a slope can provide your home with a commanding view of mountains, lakes or meadows. 90007 90010 Cons 90011 90006 Slopes have two potential drawbacks that can cause some anguish to your builder and pocketbook: accessibility and drainage.Steep slopes are difficult to access with the heavy equipment needed to build your foundation. The time required to build your foundation is often increased, and it may be necessary to pump concrete to your foundation. This can mean increased costs. 90007 90006 Sloped home sites also present drainage challenges. If you build at the top of the slope, chances are you will not face any issues. But if your site is on the side of a slope, you need to pay special attention to the amount of water that can flow toward your home and its foundation.Building codes require that the land immediately around your foundation slope away from it. This may mean your builder has to create a foundation that is partly exposed on the «upslope» side with fill dirt added for a slight counter slope against the house. This step has a positive side: less digging, and the so-called waste soil from excavation may be used as fill. 90007 90006 90004 90005 90007 90006 90004 See also: How to Choose the Best Possible Site to Build 90003 90005 90007 90006 90007 90008 90009 90055 90003 90004 These Ohio homeowners took saw their sloped lot as an opportunity to take advantage of the view.See more of this home here. Photo: Richard Lee 90005 90006 90007 90008 Question: Our lot has a 15 percent slope. Does this type of grade require a special type of home design? 90009 90010 Answer: 90011 90006 A 15 percent slope means that, for every 100 feet of horizontal distance, elevation changes 15 feet. This may not seem like a lot, but let’s consider how building on a slope like this affects your foundation. 90007 90006 Imagine that your home has overall dimensions of 28 by 60 feet.If you orient the house so that the 60-foot dimension is in the same direction as the slope, the lower corners will be 9 feet lower than the upper corners. If you orient the house so the 28-foot dimension is along the slope, the lower corners will be about 4 feet below the upper corners. As you can see, the latter case involves much less digging. 90007 90006 You can easily determine your home site’s slope with some string, a tape measure and an inexpensive «string level» -a small level vial that hangs from the string and is available from hardware stores.Simply stake one end of the string and measure off a distance down the slope with it. Hold the string taut and level and measure the distance from the string and the ground. Transfer this information to a sheet of graph paper and sketch in your foundation to see how the slope will affect your foundation. 90007 90006 90004 90005 90007 90006 90004 See also: How to Pick the Perfect Piece of Land 90003 90005 90007 90006 90007 90008 90009 90006 90007 90006 90007 90008 Question: Does a sloped lot require any type of additional excavation or costs? 90009 90010 Answer: 90011 90006 Usually, building on a slope requires less excavation than building on a site on level ground.However, if the slope is steep, the excavator may have to do some grading around the side in order to gain access. Also, steep slopes may require the use of more specialized equipment designed to operate in rougher terrain. Steep slopes may require a lot of final grading to re-direct water flow and protect your foundation. This occasionally requires your builder to haul in and spread more fill dirt, which can increase the cost of your foundation significantly. 90007 90006 90004 90005 90007 90006 90004 See also: Your Step-by-Step Guide to Log Home Construction 90005 90007 90006 90007 90008 90009 90006 90007 90008 Question: We have a 2-acre gently sloping lot in a gorgeous area that’s sometimes prone to mudslides.What major factors should we consider before we build? 90009 90010 Answer: 90011 90006 If you’re in mudslide country, you do not want to find yourself upon the ground that may slide or be in a mudslide’s path. Study your site carefully to determine where water and mud have gone in the past. If possible, visit your site during a heavy downpour and see what happens to the water. Gentle slopes do not usually pose a great threat, but building your home on the lip of a steep slope raises the possibility that rushing water may scour under your foundation and send your home sliding.If your building site presents any risk of mudslides, it’s best to talk with a civil engineer or an experienced excavator. 90007 90006 90007 90008 90009 90118 90003 90004 This log home built along a slope takes in 270 degrees of scenic North Carolina wilderness. See more of this home here. Photo: Joseph Hilliard 90005 90006 90004 90005 90007 90006 90007 90006 90007 90008 90009 90008 Question: We want our sloped property to have gorgeous landscaping. What types of investment will we have to make? 90009 90010 Answer: 90011 90006 Landscaping on slopes requires some attention to detail.First, make sure that the landscaping you have in mind can handle the slope. If some of the plant species you’ve chosen have difficulty establishing their roots in sloped areas, you may want to create a series of retaining walls. The construction of retaining walls is both an art and a science. Not only does it require a feel for the aesthetics of the landscape, but you must understand the forces that affect the wall and the construction required to control them. 90007 90006 Short retaining walls (2 feet or less) are fairly simple, but as the walls exceed 2 feet in height, the weight bearing on the back of the wall makes construction more challenging.It’s important to build the walls to resist the forces of the soil they hold. This may mean extra reinforcement and the use of «dead men,» which are anchors for the wall. 90007 90006 Sloped lots usually offer a world of design and building possibilities. If you plan correctly and work with your builder to properly map out and excavate your home site, you’ll get the best of both worlds: an efficient home plan and some amazing views. 90007 90006 90004 90005 90007 90006 90004 See also: Five Tips to Hardscaping Your Property 90003 90005 90007 90006 90007 90008 90009 90008 90009 90008 Seven Quick Tips for Success When Building on a Slope 90009 90010 Create a daylight basement in the excavated wedge area under homes on the downside slope.90011 90006 You’ll create a great view with an additional room, instead of an underused crawl space, and without enlarging your home’s footprint. 90007 90010 Reverse your layout. 90011 90006 Sloping sites allow a more modest appearance from the front and a grander one from the rear, especially with dramatic windows, such as prows. When building on a slope, it is often best to put your «front» door behind the house. 90007 90010 Have your driveway access the home from above, not below. 90011 90006 You’ll avoid having to cut the driveway into the side of the hill and build retaining walls to keep dirt and stone from falling onto it.Placing your garage at the front of the top level opens up views at all levels in back of the home. 90007 90010 Build tall. 90011 90006 Taller homes with smaller footprints require less excavation and grading, both of which are major construction expenses. And a narrow, stacked house with an open floor plan can bring views to all or most rooms. 90007 90010 Avoid building on the very top of a hill or mountain. 90011 90006 A panoramic view is great, but it will also raise your heating costs by exposing the home to cold winds in winter.Use the slope to shelter the house and narrow the view’s focus. 90007 90010 Properly site your home. 90011 90006 Site your house to avoid winter shade and summer sun as much as possible. 90007 90010 Make the house part of the view. 90011 90006 Build to conform to the land’s contours, and blend rather than clash with the topography. 90007 90006 90007 90008 90004 More on Building on a Slope: 90003 90005 90009 .90000 A House On A Slope Connects To Its Surroundings Through A Glass Elevator 90001 90002 Deciding to build on a plot with a difficult geometry, such as one with a steep slope means being prepared to face any type of challenge. In the case of the GG House which is located in Krakow, Poland, the main challenge was bringing natural light in. 90003 90002 90005 90005 View in gallery 90003 90002 90009 90009 View in gallery 90003 90002 90013 90013 View in gallery 90003 90002 90017 90017 View in gallery 90003 Subscribe to HOMEDIT 90002 90021 90021 View in gallery 90003 90002 The GG House was a project by Architekt.Lemanski. Completed in 2014 року, the house offers a total of 369 square meters of living space. The steep slope meant that the house would get almost no light from one side but also that the views would be quite beautiful. 90003 90002 90027 90027 View in gallery 90003 90002 90031 90031 View in gallery 90003 90002 The strict zoning regulations dictated that the house had to be built using only natural materials and to feature a pitched roof with a steep slope. The architects transformed these restrictions into beautiful design accents and perhaps the most suggestive element is the gabion wall visible at the front.90003 90002 90037 90037 View in gallery 90003 90002 To allow the light to illuminate the entire house, the team covered the south-facing facade with balconies and porches with glass railings. They provide shade in the summer and allow sunlight to fill the interior spaces all year round. 90003 90002 90043 90043 View in gallery 90003 90002 90047 90047 View in gallery 90003 90002 The interior space was organized as follows: the ground floor contains a kitchen connected to a terrace, a living room, a dining area and a small guest apartment.The first floor houses three bedrooms and their bathrooms. The top floor is the chill-out room and offers the most impressive views. 90003 90002 90053 90053 View in gallery 90003 90002 90003.90000 How to Prevent Runoff on a Sloped Lawn | Home Guides 90001 90002 When you live near mountains, rolling terrain, adventurous streets and sloping lawns may make attractive vistas but they present tests for landscapes and homeowners. Good stewardship requires homeowners to limit runoff from irrigation and rainfall, not only to conserve water and ease the load on storm sewers but also to retain soil and feed the aquifer, the area under the soil surface where rock layers form water tables and Artesian wells.Landscaping a sloping lawn with care keeps water in its rightful position in the water cycle and cuts down on the need — and expense — of irrigation. 90003 90002 Slow water runoff by grading and improving soil’s tilth, or texture. A gentle slope of 6 percent — 6 inches per 100-foot run — with 6 inches of loamy, well-drained topsoil manages all but torrential rains. Add a 6-inch layer of topsoil over the final grade so subsoil and topsoil share the same slope. Add plenty of organic matter — well-rotted manure or compost — to improve tilth and encourage earthworms to colonize and continue to condition the soil under your turf.90003 90002 Build permeable hardscapes such as fieldstone patios and walks, particularly within the area around the house known as the «defensible space.» Use fieldstones with sand and gravel base rather than mortared stone or cement to build terrace walls and scatter large rocks along the slope with perennials planted around them to impede runoff. Subsoil drain tile topped with mounded gravel is called a French drain; wind one gently across the slope to create a Zen-style «stream» that captures runoff.90003 90002 Plant strong turf grasses such as a bluegrass (Poa pratensis) and perennial ryegrass (Lolium spp.) Mix for year-round growth and dense root systems. Mulch seed with a straw blanket or mulch to protect it until it is growing well. De-thatch turf when the dead grass layer approaches 1 inch thick; thatch compacts and keeps water from soaking into the ground. 90003 90002 Plant only perennial ground covers and ornamental plants that hold soil with live roots for years rather than annuals whose roots die when plants die back.90003 90002 Use native plants to thrive on your hillside with a minimum of care. Choose native perennial grasses such as alkali sacaton (Sporobolus airoides) for ornamental use rather than invasives like Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana), where maintenance requires extra effort. Establish areas planted in native perennials such as California aster (Symphyotrichum chilense), California coneflower (Rudbeckia californica) and Western blue flag (Iris missouriensis Nutt.). Protect soil around perennials with organic mulch and retain plantings and mulch with stone or plastic landscape edging.90003 90002 Practice xeriscaping to use all the rain that falls on the hill. Plant drought-resistant grasses such as tall fescue (Festuca arundinacea) and perennials such as daylilies (Hemerocallis) that form thick crowns with deep roots to hold soil. 90003.